For anyone who cares, I have reached a very strong opinion about valve lubricant. Oiled/lubricated valves work better. But that is my anecdotal observation.

Like Rob indicated. The condensation first collects at the knuckles leaving the valve casing. The airflow leaves the depressed valves in this direction: 1st valve - lower knuckle near 2nd slide. 2nd valve - upper knuckle 3rd valve - lower knuckle near 2nd slide 4th valve - upper knuckle going ...

Someone is going to get a great deal on that bell. I told Mike the bell was going to be an easy fix, but he wanted his insurance to buy him a new bell after (I forget what) fell on it and dented it during that DC area earthquake decades ago.

Since they came out, the "K" cup Laskey mouthpieces are the winner almost 100% of the time they are play tested against the "F" cup.

That looks like the Meinl Weston Model 40 Eb tuba. 15" upright bell, 39" tall and .690" bore

The Eastman EBC834 prototype has been taken apart (by me as per Eastman's request) and used as a parts horn as it was not a good enough to go into production. It was the EBC632 body with the bigger .748/.812" bore valve section of the 836 tubas. Intonation and security of response was crap with that ...

Matt said it was one of the good ones, and he wasn't kidding. I'm sure I have played more than a thousand tubas over the years, but that particular tuba made a great impression on me when it was new some 20 years ago and playing it again, I was right. I am so glad that 2155s found a new home where ...

Hey Gang, Help please. Does anyone have one of those large, hollow, fixed thumb ring/flange units from a 70's-80's Cerveny tuba to sell? I'm fixing up a Cerveny Piggy to be my "Old Man" tuba because it weighs only 17 lbs and I know that day is coming where weight will be an issue. These were also on ...

Just noticed Dillon has for sale 3 of 832 with the same after ring problem. If they don’t fix it but sell as is at a discount, then I’m not sure what to think about this. Can someone explain what’s going on here? These are perfectly great tubas that have an after ring when they are played and usual ...

The shorter Allied leadpipe for large bore tubas is very close to the 45SLP taper and will work well. Yes, it is supposed to be .734 bore but it is thicker walled brass and fits.

Hey Bort 2.0, The extended tubing lengths like the Quint Valve you can get on some modern F tubas let's you..........(wait for it), Play lower notes without the sudden change in sound quality of suddenly popping into the pedal register and fingerings. Also opens up some alternate fingering ...

So I took a small ball peen hammer and gently tapped, reintroducing the dent incrementally, until the 5th partials were in lipping distance, but not risking either occluding the knuckle or fatiguing the brass Very well could be. But maybe the intonation didn't actually change as much as the pitch ...

Yes. If I have to sit on them, I'll used those alternate fingerings or lip up. The Bb I can just push in the 1st slide.

A quick update. 1) A few months ago I made sleeves to fit inside the outer slide tubes of the 1st, second, 3rd and 4th outer tubes to fill the gaps of the slides pulled out to pitch. I beveled the sleeves and put the beveled edge into the wind flow. I got an improvement but not like the heavens ...

Does not yet exist. But if it did....... 1) Weighs 10 pounds or less. 2) Acquired dents all remove themselves while I sleep at night. But always looks used and not worth stealing. 3) Fits me perfectly and is very comfortable in my lap. 4) Works with the mouthpiece I already own and like. and most ...

Yep. Sometimes I too have to buckle down and just file & sand until I get a piece to look like I want.

If you want to machine a perfectly round piece, cut out a hexagon a bit oversize. Solder it to brass rod in the middle. Chuck the rod in the lathe. Then use a cutting tool to cut off the outside edge until it is round and then down to size. Unsolder the brass rod, buff the nickel and there you go.

Chuck the finger buttons up in a lathe and machine the finger pad area flat. Leave a little roughness on the surface and you are set to go.

SOLD For sale is a Classic (Original) B.E.R.P for the tuba made of metal in very good shape priced at $40 . It accepts American shank tuba mouthpiece. Works GREAT for mouthpiece buzzing away from the tuba (Like when you are stuck in traffic.) and then can be inserted into an American shank ...

SOLD Here are four American shank tuba mouthpiece to larger Euro shank receiver adapters for sale. They make the American shank mouthpiece bigger, not smaller. If your American shank mouthpiece will not fit into your tuba, this is NOT what you need. If your mouthpiece goes too far into the receiver ...