When washing/rinsing out a German style tuba, is it safe to run the snake through the valve section if the valves have not been removed? The way the tubing is laid out it looks like it would be a clear path.
Thanks
Snaking a leadpipe when washing question
Forum rules
This section is for posts that are directly related to performance, performers, or equipment. Social issues are allowed, as long as they are directly related to those categories. If you see a post that you cannot respond to with respect and courtesy, we ask that you do not respond at all.
This section is for posts that are directly related to performance, performers, or equipment. Social issues are allowed, as long as they are directly related to those categories. If you see a post that you cannot respond to with respect and courtesy, we ask that you do not respond at all.
-
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2021 8:47 am
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 3 times
Snaking a leadpipe when washing question
- These users thanked the author Sandlapper for the post:
- bloke (Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:29 am)
- bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 19290
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 3841 times
- Been thanked: 4088 times
Re: Snaking a leadpipe when washing question
I would not.
Those surfaces are mechanically critical, and the farther a snake is extended, the less control there is, and the more the likelihood of jamming/scuffing/scratching/cutting.
Consider hooking up a rubber (NOT vinyl !!!) hose to a hot water source (washing machine, or water tank drain), with the outlet end of the hose in a controlled area (such as a bathtub w/beach towel, or outdoors In soft grass). Attach a high-pressure nozzle to the hose. Remove the main tuning slide. Controlling the hose - and avoiding being scalded, jet high-pressure hot water through the instrument from the mouthpiece receiver and work the rotors vigorously for as long as a minute or two, allowing smut and debris to be flushed out through the main tuning slide outer tube.
This should work as well as any snake (not as good as complete disassembly, but accomplishing something), and avoiding any risk of lodging something in the instrument or nicking critical valve surfaces.
This method (nor a snake) will remove NO hard lime deposits.
=======
Though I’m completely capable of a proper cleaning job and have am completely set up for them (as I regularly do them for others), I use this technique on my own rotary instruments, because it’s quick and easy, and because it seems to avoid the full-blown job becoming necessary. My vintage F tuba features a small diameter mouthpipe tube, and this type of cleaning seems beneficial when the instrument doesn’t seem to quite play as well as it had been playing.
I also subscribe to the belief that heavy frequent - daily or even more often - oiling (with nearly no cost oil, such as ultra pure lamp oil) discourages hard lime deposits.
Those surfaces are mechanically critical, and the farther a snake is extended, the less control there is, and the more the likelihood of jamming/scuffing/scratching/cutting.
Consider hooking up a rubber (NOT vinyl !!!) hose to a hot water source (washing machine, or water tank drain), with the outlet end of the hose in a controlled area (such as a bathtub w/beach towel, or outdoors In soft grass). Attach a high-pressure nozzle to the hose. Remove the main tuning slide. Controlling the hose - and avoiding being scalded, jet high-pressure hot water through the instrument from the mouthpiece receiver and work the rotors vigorously for as long as a minute or two, allowing smut and debris to be flushed out through the main tuning slide outer tube.
This should work as well as any snake (not as good as complete disassembly, but accomplishing something), and avoiding any risk of lodging something in the instrument or nicking critical valve surfaces.
This method (nor a snake) will remove NO hard lime deposits.
=======
Though I’m completely capable of a proper cleaning job and have am completely set up for them (as I regularly do them for others), I use this technique on my own rotary instruments, because it’s quick and easy, and because it seems to avoid the full-blown job becoming necessary. My vintage F tuba features a small diameter mouthpipe tube, and this type of cleaning seems beneficial when the instrument doesn’t seem to quite play as well as it had been playing.
I also subscribe to the belief that heavy frequent - daily or even more often - oiling (with nearly no cost oil, such as ultra pure lamp oil) discourages hard lime deposits.
Last edited by bloke on Thu Mar 18, 2021 12:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2021 8:47 am
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 3 times
Re: Snaking a leadpipe when washing question
Thanks Bloke. That confirmed my suspicions but was sure. Certainly don't want to do any harm.
- bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 19290
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 3841 times
- Been thanked: 4088 times
Re: Snaking a leadpipe when washing question
Imagine having a snake lodged where it is already passing through two or three rotors… What a nightmare!
Re: Snaking a leadpipe when washing question
My teacher taught me to fill the bell with water and then take a plunger to it. Just make sure the pressured jettison coming out of the mouthpipe is aimed in a responsible direction!
Further tips:
Let it air out a day. Or better yet if you have an air compressor (even those you use for blowing up air mattresses): dry out your mouthpipe completely.
Afterwards run a generous amount of valve oil down the leadpipe, let it sink in about a half hour then do a bit of thicker oil (like you use on the linkage. I do this hoping to get the oil sunk into every molecular cranny possible and to give it a fighting chance against what inevitably is coming; moisture. From the air, from your breath, from saliva.
I further oil my mouthpipes before and after playing. As long as the oil was there first moisture will move on.
At least that’s my theory. I encourage any and everyone to prove me wrong because, well, if it’s wrong it’s wrong.
Further tips:
Let it air out a day. Or better yet if you have an air compressor (even those you use for blowing up air mattresses): dry out your mouthpipe completely.
Afterwards run a generous amount of valve oil down the leadpipe, let it sink in about a half hour then do a bit of thicker oil (like you use on the linkage. I do this hoping to get the oil sunk into every molecular cranny possible and to give it a fighting chance against what inevitably is coming; moisture. From the air, from your breath, from saliva.
I further oil my mouthpipes before and after playing. As long as the oil was there first moisture will move on.
At least that’s my theory. I encourage any and everyone to prove me wrong because, well, if it’s wrong it’s wrong.
- bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 19290
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 3841 times
- Been thanked: 4088 times
Re: Snaking a leadpipe when washing question
When touring caves, people are prohibited from touching surfaces, because oil from hands stops the formation of lime stalactites.