WTB: spare miraphone rotary valve cap

[York-aholic]

Hi all. I’m looking to buy a rotary valve cap to fit a Miraphone 183 (Eb) or 184 (BBb or CC), .705” rotor. I’m looking for one with the engraved design, rather that the ones that were plain (Choosers can be beggars). I don’t care if it has the little screw in the middle or the type without.

Like one of these (again, with or without the center screw):

800C0EA1-620E-4256-A017-408AAE77B312.jpeg (35.52 KiB) Viewed 531 times

Price: I’ll pay a reasonable amount, not knowing what a new one costs from Miraphone. Please let me know if you have one rolling around and I’m sure we can reach an agreement.

[the elephant]

Just as a source of information, Miraphone bottom valve caps, in nickel silver, with a screw, with engraving, currently cost between $13 and $26, so don't any of you nice people try to get $150 out of him for your used valve cap. Thanks for playing Don't Gouge the Tuba Player!

Sorry. I can delete that text if you like. I am trying to keep things real here when sometimes they can get a little unreal. Some ads here clearly show that some owners believe their old cuspidor is worth a fortune. Most folks are realistic, though.

Just out of curiosity, have you tried a 186 cap to make certain they are not interchangeable? My .835" 191 and current 190 valves and my .769" 186 valves use the same cap. The older style, much larger valves of the 190 valve use a larger one. I am sure yours uses a smaller one, but it would be a shame if a 186 cap fit and you did not just get one of those, since they are much easier to locate. (Point being that not all the valves have their own rear caps, but share with other valves using the same casing OD.)

Good luck!

aaaaaaand BUMP!

[York-aholic]

In that case I’m willing to pay up to $125.



Here is a plain one that fits (1.408” ID):

83CB70CF-D5BB-476F-91AD-01D92DA2C646.jpeg (24.85 KiB) Viewed 510 times

Of for those playing in the metric world (35.80mm):

9BE05E4F-558F-4020-8762-FB7F7C65D36B.jpeg (22.85 KiB) Viewed 510 times

Thanks for the info @the elephant.

“Hi, is that a 186? Can I measure your valve caps?”

[the elephant]

[York-aholic]

?

[Three Valves]

Can I measure your valve caps?”

Certainly not on a first date.

[bloke]

I can't read these clock faces (??)...but yes, those are times that I typically get out of bed.

[LargeTuba]

https://reverb.com/item/39378179-miraph ... valve-caps

I'm guessing these wouldn't work?

[York-aholic]

https://reverb.com/item/39378179-miraph ... valve-caps

I'm guessing these wouldn't work?

Thanks. I saw those a couple of weeks ago, but the ad said only sold as a set.

Has anyone ever seen a 6v Miraphone 188?

[bloke]

https://reverb.com/item/39378179-miraph ... valve-caps

I'm guessing these wouldn't work?

Thanks. I saw those a couple of weeks ago, but the ad said only sold as a set.

Has anyone ever seen a 6v Miraphone 188?

<SIDEBAR>
If rotary, I'd MUCH prefer a 6-valve C tuba.
As posted about by me previously (more than once or twice), a long SEMI-tone is VERY useful...and eliminates the two (typically) poor choices of 2-4 or 5-2-3, and also offers a spot-on-intonation "double-low" D (3-4-5-6), which - in written music - is appearing more-and-more often.
Though a 188 is one of the more easily-played-in-tune C tubas, a 4+2 system leaves BOTH thumbs available for spring-return slide triggers, so (if mediocre tuning characteristics) one thumb could kick out the main slide, and the other thumb could kick out the #1 slide.

bloke "Additional available devices make things EASIER - and do NOT make things 'more complicated'. Sure...3-valve sousaphones (outdoor noise, etc.) are fine, but - as striking examples - almost no woodwind players are playing two-century-old-bare-bones-systems instruments...and didn't some of the VERY FIRST tubas feature 6 valves...??"

</SIDEBAR>