Leadpipe for King 1135W 3/4 tuba

[Jperry1466]

I'm hoping someone on here who repairs/rebuilds tubas can help. One of my client schools has two of the 1135s that have trashed leadpipes. He is having trouble finding any sources for them. He could make them himself, but said the cost would make it prohibitive for the school, and it would be too costly for him vs. what he could charge. Anyone know where 1 or 2 of these could be had?
(It is much worse than what the pic shows)

[Tubajug]

I'm afraid I can't help with the leadpipe, but I'm just curious looking at that photo:

Is that valveset the same/ almost the same as a Conn 12J set? It certainly looks similar...

[Jperry1466]

I'm afraid I can't help with the leadpipe, but I'm just curious looking at that photo:

Is that valveset the same/ almost the same as a Conn 12J set? It certainly looks similar...

They do look very similar. The two horns do have virtually the same bore: King .660, Conn .658, and the overall design of the slides is similar. The 12J as I remember has a much larger bell and is a heavier instrument. I at first thought the King had somewhat shorter action valves than most that size, until I realized that the valve buttons don't match, so it was somewhat of an optical illusion.

[LargeTuba]

https://parts.conn-selmer.com/products/ ... t/390/1135

$130

I think I might have one, or one that works. I'm out of town, but I'll update you on details and measurements when I get back.

Also, what's wrong with the leadpipe? It doesn't look too bad on the photo.

[Jperry1466]

Thanks. I re-read his texts and need to make a correction. The previous pic I posted was the "repaired" KIng. The one that he can't get a leadpipe for is an older Conn; I overlooked that. I think his point is that these horns are to the point that they are no longer worth what the repairs will cost to do it right. Here is are his messages with accompanying pics. The King (top pic) is the 1135W; I can't tell what the model of the Conn (bottom pic) is from the photo.
Top pic:
"XXXX School has an older king tuba with a mouthpipe that has already been sleeved. There is no really good way way to fix this one again. The pipe costs $108.12 according to our supplier but I'm not completely convinced they have it. The horn is right at the level that they need to decided if it's worth doing for them. I'd say this should definitely be the last major thing they did to this Instrument."
Bottom pic:
"They have one tuba that has a really terrible lead pipe/mouthpiece set up. It's an old Conn and I can't get an original mouth pipe any longer. I could make one but the horn really is not worth it."

I thought it was a supply problem. It is apparently a "not worth it" problem. The good news is this school just bought 7 new 3/4 tubas. They are a growing program and say they still need these older horns, so I was trying to help. The old band director in me just can't help it.

[York-aholic]

https://parts.conn-selmer.com/products/ ... t/390/1135

$130

I think I might have one, or one that works. I'm out of town, but I'll update you on details and measurements when I get back.

Also, what's wrong with the leadpipe? It doesn't look too bad on the photo.

Searching that site with Instrument: tuba and Make: Conn gives a list of (duh) Conn tubas they have parts for.

Conn says:

5J - professional
12J - professional
...
52J - intermediate

That is going to piss off some 52J owners out there

[LargeTuba]

You can also find king parts on the Conn website. I put a direct link to the 1135 part list but it just brings you to the front page.

[hrender]

That is going to piss off some 52J owners out there

The King 2341 still gets listed as a "Step-Up" model. Damning with faint praise.

[bloke]

I hardly see any 1135 models around here...mostly funky old 1140’s...

...so I’ve never ordered any of those 1135 ‘pipes nor bent any, but the bend looks to be really simple to imitate - using one of those long skinny Elkhorn, WI generic mouthpipe tubes that are filled with pitch.

The only thing is that for the next day or so it’s gonna be about 100° around here, and I would just have to make sure that my workshop air conditioner had my shop cooled down to about 70° (for ideal bending with pitch), but - fortunately - my air conditioner can do that.

[bloke]

Now that I'm getting old...As my playing (to my own ears) begins to noticeably suck, I'll need to be shopping (first) for "intermediate" models to "step-down", and then to "beginner" models, yes?

I first realized that all of that terminology was b.s. when (c. age 19 or so) I head a bunch of young guys (sort of a move-all-around-the-room brass quintet "act") perform, and the tuba-guy was using a Yamaha 103.

[bloke]

Even if someone charges a ton (like $300) to re-mouthpipe a tuba like that...If they're buying new ones - for THOUSANDS of dollars (I'm I'm wild-guessing that the directors are yamabots - buying the most expensive "good-enough" beginner tubas that are sold), what's a few hundred to keep one playing about like new?