Post-polish
- Tubajug
- Posts: 746
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 10:27 am
- Location: Nebraska
- Has thanked: 226 times
- Been thanked: 203 times
Post-polish
What's your post-polish routine? Either silver or raw brass. Do you degrease (for lack of a better term?) after you polish to remove any residue? If so, what do you prefer to use? Mineral spirits followed by a soap and water bath? Nothing at all?
Jordan
King 2341 with Holton Monster Eb Bell
King/Conn Eb Frankentuba
Pan AmeriConn BBb Helicon
Yamaha YBB-103
"No one else is placed exactly as we are in our opportune human orbits."
King 2341 with Holton Monster Eb Bell
King/Conn Eb Frankentuba
Pan AmeriConn BBb Helicon
Yamaha YBB-103
"No one else is placed exactly as we are in our opportune human orbits."
- bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 19373
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 3860 times
- Been thanked: 4119 times
Re: Post-polish
The only raw brass tuba that I’ve ever had is the Holton that I just built, and - so far (??) - I’m just letting it turn dark brown.
My silver tubas have all been satin silver, and I used a watery chemical (sulfur-smelling) oxidation dissolver on them - applied with a sponge, while wearing rubber gloves. I just rinsed it off - after I dissolved all the black tarnish - and patted them dry with a towel.
The last time I cleaned off the known-to-many Buescher C helicon was just before I was in that silly Hallmark movie, and then - once the filming was done – shipped it off to its new owner. (I actually recorded the music soundtracks - that we pantomimed on the riverboat - with my Besson E-flat tuba, but knew that the helicon would photograph well.)
When I own silver tubas, I’m not particularly faithful about keeping them shiny, and they spend a lot of time being brown or black.
I’m a huge fan of epoxy lacquer, but a satin finish is the best way to hide nicks and scratches in the surfaces of restored instruments, rather than buffing the crap out of them.
My silver tubas have all been satin silver, and I used a watery chemical (sulfur-smelling) oxidation dissolver on them - applied with a sponge, while wearing rubber gloves. I just rinsed it off - after I dissolved all the black tarnish - and patted them dry with a towel.
The last time I cleaned off the known-to-many Buescher C helicon was just before I was in that silly Hallmark movie, and then - once the filming was done – shipped it off to its new owner. (I actually recorded the music soundtracks - that we pantomimed on the riverboat - with my Besson E-flat tuba, but knew that the helicon would photograph well.)
When I own silver tubas, I’m not particularly faithful about keeping them shiny, and they spend a lot of time being brown or black.
I’m a huge fan of epoxy lacquer, but a satin finish is the best way to hide nicks and scratches in the surfaces of restored instruments, rather than buffing the crap out of them.
- bort2.0
- Posts: 5258
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 9:13 am
- Location: Minneapolis
- Has thanked: 336 times
- Been thanked: 1000 times
Re: Post-polish
Been wondering a little about that myself... On my Conn Eb, I used Tarn-X to get rid of most of the black. That seems like pretty nasty stuff, so I tried to not let things soak longer than they needed to. Followed by silver cream, them a few rounds of old T shirts. I don't plan to polish it much, but it did need a good 100+ year reset. Someone else can do the next one of those.
After that... Not much. Just a little wipe down after I'm done with the horn. Water spots bother me more than normal amounts of non-shiny and tarnish.
I am NOT the person who constantly polishes things and definitely not the white-gloves person either. Tubas are pretty and should.look pretty... But they are also tools and should be used, and used to the point of getting worn out.
I don't think I told you anything helpful!
After that... Not much. Just a little wipe down after I'm done with the horn. Water spots bother me more than normal amounts of non-shiny and tarnish.
I am NOT the person who constantly polishes things and definitely not the white-gloves person either. Tubas are pretty and should.look pretty... But they are also tools and should be used, and used to the point of getting worn out.
I don't think I told you anything helpful!
- bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 19373
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 3860 times
- Been thanked: 4119 times
-
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:41 am
- Has thanked: 41 times
- Been thanked: 80 times
Re: Post-polish
I thought this thread was going to be a thread about WW2...but it's about PAUL-ishing tubas.
06' Miraphone 187-4U
- Doc
- Posts: 2472
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 9:48 am
- Location: Downtown Browntown
- Has thanked: 846 times
- Been thanked: 767 times
- Contact:
Re: Post-polish
I have a satin silver tuba that looks like it went swimming in coffee. Gulf coast humidity SUCKS!
I have some liquid stuff I can spray on and rinse off, but I don't want to do it too often so as to start affecting the silver itself.
Welcome to Browntown!
Home of the Brown Note!
Home of the Brown Note!
- bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 19373
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 3860 times
- Been thanked: 4119 times
Re: Post-polish
I hear stuff about gas heat, but surely (if a valid observation) that only has to do with those unventilated types of wall and space heaters, and not HVAC ventilated.