Removing oil residue from exterior instrument surfaces

[kingrob76]

Over the last few years I've gotten increasingly annoyed / frustrated and the feeling of valve / slide oil on the places of an instrument I touch - in particular the valve buttons, other places less so. I know this is going to happen, and I accept that idea. However, I get nervous when valve buttons get slippery so I really work hard to try and keep those oil-free.

I've been using Windex to "wipe off" spots and remove that oil feel but lately I've come to realize it's not very effective. I remember from elementary school that soap and water will do that trick, but, it's not feasible to use soap and water all the time. Is there a cleaner, or cleaning method, that anyone has found that does NOT involve soap and water to remove oil from the surface of instruments? Also - it can't damage lacquer or silver. That's a non-starter.

[jtuba]

I keep a dry microfiber towel nearby to spot wipe the horn when I feel oil on the surface. Hasn’t seemed to damage anything yet, but there’s always potential to scratch if you’re worried about that

[Three Valves]

Maybe it's time to bust out those horded Purell towelettes...

[DonO.]

I just use a clean t shirt. Seems to absorb things pretty well. If that’s not enough you need something that cuts the grease but won’t hurt lacquer. I never tried it, but what about vinegar?

[jtm]

Switch to rotors?

[bort2.0]

[quote]Switch to rotors?[/quote]

Slippery rotor paddles are a terrible feeling, and Rob, I'm right there with you.

I've never had much trouble with fixing it on the fly, just a non-oily rag and a little water seem to do the trick just fine. BUT, be sure to clean your fingertips as well. Degreased valve buttons are only helpful when your hands are also degreased.

Again though, water seems to work just fine.

I do wonder though, if a semi-grippy material for finger buttons could be helpful. I forget what it's called, but some knife manufacturers use materials for the handles that are grippy and rubbery, but without degrading over time and usage. This is to eliminate slipping out of your hands when it's wet, oily, field-dressing game, etc. I think it's called Thermorun...? But as with most stuff, if there's one material that works, there are probably a bunch that would also work just as well. MOP sure looks nice, but something synthetic and oil-resistant would be more practical.

[DonO.]

Seems like slippery paddles/buttons would be much less of a problem if the factory would add some kind of texture. Something akin to “knurling”? But lacking that, maybe there’s some kind of peel and stick material that would work to to make paddles or buttons grippier? Something like peel and stick felt, Velcro, rubber, moleskin, etc? Off topic I know, but I just got to thinking.

[bloke]

Touch a few drops of gasoline (even at $4/gal. - the cheapest solvent to cut oil/grease) on a soft rag, wipe it away, and then go back over the surface with Fantastik (or similar all-purpose cleaner) to remove the tiny bit of gasoline residue (so this is a two-stage thing).

Keep some cheap off-brand (weak) liquid dishwashing liquid handy to wash the slide grease/valve oil from your hands - prior to picking up your instrument. It works better than hand soap for degreasing, but isn't as hard on your skin as Dawn.

There are ways to get that stuff off in one stage (but probably some people - here - would cry, "EEK!").

[UncleBeer]

Seems like slippery paddles/buttons would be much less of a problem if the factory would add some kind of texture. Something akin to “knurling”?

Something like this perhaps?

IMG_20220422_161524107_11zon.jpg (198.07 KiB) Viewed 828 times

[bloke]

@Doc

Bill,
People are trying to show off… It’s time to show off your Miraphone 186 paddles.

[Doc]

@Doc

Bill,
People are trying to show off… It’s time to show off your Miraphone 186 paddles.

Give me a little bit.

[bloke]

Also, people should know that – prior to installation – they were thinned down to about 40% or so of original thickness, so as to not add excessive weight and not to not require additional lever spring tension.

bloke “grippy!!! Teutonic!!! … GRIPPY !!!! TEUTONIC !!!!… // easy fellas… It’s both. ”

[bort2.0]

The rotor paddles on the B&S Neptune are deeply stamped/engraved. Felt kind of nice, and looked very cool. Still slippery when oily.

[Three Valves]

Coins.

[kingrob76]

I had a Wessex with the engraved finger buttons. Actually didn’t care for them but they offered no extra traction. I’ve debated some fairly thin and dense foam rubber type material (like a grip on a baseball bat) but my preference is to just kept them clean.

@bloke’s idea about gasoline is valid but not practical when at a gig or rehearsal. Purell wipes actually might be a great idea if I had any and I need to test the alcohol on silver before committing to that.

For the record, Simple Green sucks at this and while it does remove the oil it leaves it’s own residue behind. The idea of and alcohol-based solution is the leader in the clubhouse.

[matt g]

No idea what the chemical composition of the things are, but I’d suspect that the single-use “Shout Wipes” have a pretty decent solvent for lipids/oils.

[bloke]

I didn't "get" that this is happening at venues.
I usually squirt oil down the mouthpipe (or main slide) before sticking the tuba(s)-du-jour in its case and hitting the road.

[bort2.0]

Question -- is real MOP more tactile than the plastic version?

[bloke]

Question -- is real MOP more tactile than the plastic version?

Either are, if you sand 'em.

olden days:
no absurdly-oversized (and heavy, requiring stronger springs) buttons, YET concave pearls, which supplied a 'place' for each fingertip.