Question on Conn 40k Parts
-
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2022 1:21 am
- Location: Washington State
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 0
Question on Conn 40k Parts
Hello All,
I recently acquired a 1931 Conn 40k from my old college's surplus auction. I've wanted this particular horn since I played it in band and got the privilege to do so for 3 years. Unfortunately its not in the condition I remember it being in and it needs work. Eventually I will get it in the shop to be overhauled, but right now I would like to be able to play it to see how rough it is.
My main problems are a missing neck/upper leadpipe and the bits. As well as a valve button cap, valve spring, and all the felts.
When I look online I conn 20k necks available, but i'm not sure if those fit and frankly i'm probably looking in the wrong places.
What neck should I be looking for? Or is there a good place to get it? (if anyone has some they are willing to sell please let me know as well)
Id love to find a matching setup from that era, but i doubt i will easily do so and im fine with modern replacements
Any other advice on this?
Thanks in advance!
I recently acquired a 1931 Conn 40k from my old college's surplus auction. I've wanted this particular horn since I played it in band and got the privilege to do so for 3 years. Unfortunately its not in the condition I remember it being in and it needs work. Eventually I will get it in the shop to be overhauled, but right now I would like to be able to play it to see how rough it is.
My main problems are a missing neck/upper leadpipe and the bits. As well as a valve button cap, valve spring, and all the felts.
When I look online I conn 20k necks available, but i'm not sure if those fit and frankly i'm probably looking in the wrong places.
What neck should I be looking for? Or is there a good place to get it? (if anyone has some they are willing to sell please let me know as well)
Id love to find a matching setup from that era, but i doubt i will easily do so and im fine with modern replacements
Any other advice on this?
Thanks in advance!
- bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 19342
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 3854 times
- Been thanked: 4105 times
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
Use 20K neck & bits.
- These users thanked the author bloke for the post:
- WitchyPsycho2 (Fri Aug 19, 2022 2:06 am)
-
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2022 1:21 am
- Location: Washington State
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 0
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
I have another question related more to restoration of the horn.
The silver plating is wearing through quite badly in a lot of areas and as much I dont particularly want to, I think I am looking at an entire replate of the horn.
Im in the Washington Area and was wondering if there are any go to repair places for these old Conns on the west coast? My first thought it Oberloh in Seattle who I know to be one of the best in the area, but I know it would take about a year for it to be finished from what I have heard.
Any recommendations?
The silver plating is wearing through quite badly in a lot of areas and as much I dont particularly want to, I think I am looking at an entire replate of the horn.
Im in the Washington Area and was wondering if there are any go to repair places for these old Conns on the west coast? My first thought it Oberloh in Seattle who I know to be one of the best in the area, but I know it would take about a year for it to be finished from what I have heard.
Any recommendations?
- arpthark
- Posts: 3923
- Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2020 4:25 pm
- Location: Southeastern Connecticut
- Has thanked: 956 times
- Been thanked: 1074 times
- Contact:
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
I wonder if stripping the silver plate and leaving it as bare brass would be a more economical and timely alternative than getting the entire sousaphone replated.
Would you mind sharing a picture of the current condition of the sousaphone?
Would you mind sharing a picture of the current condition of the sousaphone?
Blake
Bean Hill Brass
Bean Hill Brass
-
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2022 1:21 am
- Location: Washington State
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 0
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
Here are a couple pictures of what I am looking at.
I would consider the raw brass, however the i much prefer the silver. Its kind of one of those I dont terribly mind the costs and with how old the horn is it doesnt bother me to either.
I would consider the raw brass, however the i much prefer the silver. Its kind of one of those I dont terribly mind the costs and with how old the horn is it doesnt bother me to either.
- Attachments
-
- Sousa.jpg (60.02 KiB) Viewed 728 times
-
- Sousa 2.jpg (52.24 KiB) Viewed 728 times
- arpthark
- Posts: 3923
- Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2020 4:25 pm
- Location: Southeastern Connecticut
- Has thanked: 956 times
- Been thanked: 1074 times
- Contact:
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
Wow, that wear doesn't look too bad at all to me. I was expecting something much worse.
I wonder if it could be touched up in some way instead of the entire sousie being replated.
I wonder if it could be touched up in some way instead of the entire sousie being replated.
Blake
Bean Hill Brass
Bean Hill Brass
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
I wouldn’t bother having that thing replated. That’s a LOT of work and to me takes some of the cool factor away
If it needs valve work and some parts replaced, then do that. As bloke said they take 20K neck and bits.
Leave the cosmetics as is. As far as I’m aware you’d be taking off a bunch of material from the horn and you don’t want it being as dent-prone as the new ones.
Replating a whole horn is, again to my limited understanding, a huge undertaking. ALL dents need to be removed, the old finish has to be stripped, then you have to find someone with the capability to silver plate, etc.
If it were ME, I’d just do a mechanical overhaul, if you will. Get the valves done, make the slides work better, clean it, and play it. YMMV.
If it needs valve work and some parts replaced, then do that. As bloke said they take 20K neck and bits.
Leave the cosmetics as is. As far as I’m aware you’d be taking off a bunch of material from the horn and you don’t want it being as dent-prone as the new ones.
Replating a whole horn is, again to my limited understanding, a huge undertaking. ALL dents need to be removed, the old finish has to be stripped, then you have to find someone with the capability to silver plate, etc.
If it were ME, I’d just do a mechanical overhaul, if you will. Get the valves done, make the slides work better, clean it, and play it. YMMV.
Meinl Weston 2165
B&M CC
Willson 3200RZ-5
Holton 340
Holton 350
Pan-American Eb
King Medium Eb
B&M CC
Willson 3200RZ-5
Holton 340
Holton 350
Pan-American Eb
King Medium Eb
-
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2022 1:21 am
- Location: Washington State
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 0
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
Thats my concern as well. Im happy with the finish currently, but as I am cleaning and getting it polished the plating is looking thinner and thinner.
Last time I played it (7ish years ago) it was still doing ok there, and the insides are relatively clean. No major mold or internal growths. Thankfully stored in a climate controlled room year round and we are a dryer climate.
At this point I do want to maintain this look, but some of the areas where its rubbed through I remember leaving marks on my uniform and old brass tends to be toxic so I really want to protect myself and the horn. Its 9 years shy of a 100 years old and I would like to see it keep going for decades more.
its almost like getting a really thin clear coat layer of something would work once its been fully cleaned and serviced would give me the protection I am looking for, but outside of some kind of epoxy Im not sure what is even out there anymore.
Any ideas?
Last time I played it (7ish years ago) it was still doing ok there, and the insides are relatively clean. No major mold or internal growths. Thankfully stored in a climate controlled room year round and we are a dryer climate.
At this point I do want to maintain this look, but some of the areas where its rubbed through I remember leaving marks on my uniform and old brass tends to be toxic so I really want to protect myself and the horn. Its 9 years shy of a 100 years old and I would like to see it keep going for decades more.
its almost like getting a really thin clear coat layer of something would work once its been fully cleaned and serviced would give me the protection I am looking for, but outside of some kind of epoxy Im not sure what is even out there anymore.
Any ideas?
-
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2022 1:21 am
- Location: Washington State
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 0
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
I should also add when it was under my care in college my last year there I did a full maintenance run through it. Cleaned all the slides and regreased them, high quality valve oil, etc.
When I found it in the auction it still had the same grease on it to fit my specs. (I use different lubricants on each slide for easy movement based upon need)
When I found it in the auction it still had the same grease on it to fit my specs. (I use different lubricants on each slide for easy movement based upon need)
- iiipopes
- Posts: 1056
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 4:26 pm
- Has thanked: 138 times
- Been thanked: 188 times
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
I am of the opinion of leaving the wear in the plating be for the souzy to tell its story, keeping it clean. When I had the use of a 38K years ago, I actually was glad to see some normal wear around where you normally place your hands and such, which let me know the souzy had been played regularly; the inference being it was a good instrument or it would not have been played that much, which it was. It was one of the best souzys I ever played until my shoulder just couldn't take the 35+ pounds anymore, even with the shoulder plate. All I ever did to it was keep it repaired and maintained, with one modification: convert the upper loop of the first valve circuit to a movable slide for the very few notes that needed a tweak for intonation, like for those who "ride throttle" on the first valve slide of a tuba. Even on a 4-valve souzy, it could come in handy on low Eb 1+4 and the near-pedal tones.
Jupiter JTU1110 - K&G 3F
"Real" Conn 36K - JK 4B Classic
"Real" Conn 36K - JK 4B Classic
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
I’m not sure about old brass being toxic… It might turn your fingers blue but just wash your hands and you’re fine. If you’re really concerned, you could wear gloves or maybe apply some form of wax coating on the wear areas? Just a thought.
The plating probably is thin because it’s been used so much but don’t let that deter you. I’m sure the horn will outlast you if you take good care of it.
The plating probably is thin because it’s been used so much but don’t let that deter you. I’m sure the horn will outlast you if you take good care of it.
Meinl Weston 2165
B&M CC
Willson 3200RZ-5
Holton 340
Holton 350
Pan-American Eb
King Medium Eb
B&M CC
Willson 3200RZ-5
Holton 340
Holton 350
Pan-American Eb
King Medium Eb
- arpthark
- Posts: 3923
- Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2020 4:25 pm
- Location: Southeastern Connecticut
- Has thanked: 956 times
- Been thanked: 1074 times
- Contact:
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
Raw brass makes me itch a bit, but I don't think it's very injurious to one's health.
I had a raw brass Alexander that I used a leather wrap on which helped eliminate contact dermatitis.
If you have similarly sensitive skin and you find that replating ends up being cost prohibitive, you might consider a wrap of some sort.
Otherwise, really cool sousaphone! It honestly looks like it is in great shape to me, even with the plating as it is. I hope you have fun playing it!
I had a raw brass Alexander that I used a leather wrap on which helped eliminate contact dermatitis.
If you have similarly sensitive skin and you find that replating ends up being cost prohibitive, you might consider a wrap of some sort.
Otherwise, really cool sousaphone! It honestly looks like it is in great shape to me, even with the plating as it is. I hope you have fun playing it!
Blake
Bean Hill Brass
Bean Hill Brass
- bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 19342
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 3854 times
- Been thanked: 4105 times
Re: Question on Conn 40k Parts
It's difficult to find anyone (anywhere) whose willing to take on jobs like that, and - if they're willing - (typically) sousaphones and tubas will sit-and-sit-and-sit, as other jobs are much easier to complete/receive quick remuneration.
Shipping (to/from the repair shop and - in the middle of such a job - to/from the plating plant is expensive and risky, as well.
Finally (getting real) consider how you might feel (after waiting quite a few months or a couple of years to get this done) after the first small dent is put back into the instrument...and then: the first large dent.
Personally, I would charge (to really put something like in "completely restored condition" - and that would include valves) more than I would ever consider paying for such an instrument - were it in completely restored condition.
Shipping (to/from the repair shop and - in the middle of such a job - to/from the plating plant is expensive and risky, as well.
Finally (getting real) consider how you might feel (after waiting quite a few months or a couple of years to get this done) after the first small dent is put back into the instrument...and then: the first large dent.
Personally, I would charge (to really put something like in "completely restored condition" - and that would include valves) more than I would ever consider paying for such an instrument - were it in completely restored condition.