I'm wondering... If I wanted to cut down my fifth valve slide to a flat while step, is there even room to cut what's there? Based on the routing, I'm worried it would put the slide in a really weird place, blocking access to the fifth valve stop arm.
Is my best bet to just remove all the existing fifth valve tubing, and get some new parts to face upwards out of the valve like the first valve does? Might be a little tall though...? I'm having trouble finding a photo of a Miraphone 181 for ideas...
F tuba flat whole step conversion question
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- bort2.0
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Re: F tuba flat whole step conversion question
Hey Bort, why not shorten it a half step for a two whole step fifth.
I'm thinking it would be less work & $, and it is a formerly common length with lots of alternates.
Joe
I'm thinking it would be less work & $, and it is a formerly common length with lots of alternates.
Joe
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Re: F tuba flat whole step conversion question
Definitely an option, you're right.
I think I'd like to start with the flat whole step approach first then pull back based on costs/work if I need to.
- matt g
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Re: F tuba flat whole step conversion question
An option that requires no cutting would be to extend the tubing on the fifth valve with sleeves such that you have a “one valve low Bb” option.
I have no idea what the follow-on fingering options would be, although I suspect low A is 5+1, but you’d have an easily reversible option if it's time to move the horn along.
I have no idea what the follow-on fingering options would be, although I suspect low A is 5+1, but you’d have an easily reversible option if it's time to move the horn along.
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Re: F tuba flat whole step conversion question
I agree with Matt G. I would start with having somebody order parts for and make another 5th valve slide which extended the fifth valve to play Bb by itself. I think this is called a quint valve.matt g wrote: ↑Tue Sep 06, 2022 3:52 am An option that requires no cutting would be to extend the tubing on the fifth valve with sleeves such that you have a “one valve low Bb” option.
I have no idea what the follow-on fingering options would be, although I suspect low A is 5+1, but you’d have an easily reversible option if it's time to move the horn along.
I think I might get whoever to also make you an "in tune 2+4 slide", ie, fifth valve would play low B natural by itself and mess with that as well.
With a quint valve, the buttons to mash get easier as the fingerings for low notes are mostly the same as a flat whole step, only you don't press the 4th valve down for notes which involve the 5th valve.
You would lose the "c in the staff" button though.