The day I did that work, my friend had to scoot, so the conversion was crazy-hectic.
Additionally, I found (on that day) that I was going to have to make a crazy-short tapered gooseneck tube (in order for it to work).
When his wife and children went to visit her relatives in another state (a couple of days ago) - with him staying home to look after all the pets (many), he slipped up here again, and we spent yet another hour and a half (??) lining up the rotors' circuits more nicely with the bell section (ie. colinear with the bell section - as well as coplanar with each other.
Being that the circuit widths are narrow (compared to many other bass trombones) and thus
LONG, finding places to brace everything (particularly with him being unwilling to surrender the main slide's cross-brace) is a challenge. I found some places to brace it up, but - with this extraordinary amount of overhang - it's still a bit flexible.
There's ONE more place that I can brace up one of the two circuits, but he had to head back home (dog/cats/etc.) so I'll do that one next time. (It involves a curved and ground-down piece of brass rod brazed to a flange.)
I could brace across each pair of tubes, but I'm thinking that will just add additional weight, and won't do much to stiffen anything up.
I suppose I could use some of those threaded/removable braces, but whatever. It will be just fine...and (with what he paid for this formerly-quite-distressed 1970's Mirafone knock-off of a Conn 72H (as there really weren't any American style trombones made in continental Europe at that time - yet they were quite popular) and what he paid for the Jimbo inline two-rotor bell section (and yeah, I charged him for a couple of new genuine Conn outside playing slide tubes) this instrument (which sounds quite good) was comically inexpensive.
Anyway...The two rotor circuits are now much more nicely-aligned with the bell section.
Someday, we might even clean up all the solder joints much more nicely, polish it up, and put a finish on it...(??)
sound...??
This Mirafone thing's resonance is very much in the vintage Conn "family", but with a little bit more "teeth".
He also managed to pick up a vintage (Elkhart) Conn (ie. real) 72H. It sounds "prettier", but he has to work harder to cut through (ie. keep up with bloke
![Tuba :tuba:](./images/smilies/tuba.gif)
) The Conn 72H was also crazy cheap, but I believe I remember that I had to replace all four playing slide tubes on that thing. (Rightfully so, he didn't want to mess that Elkhart Conn single-rotor bass up with budget Chinese valves, and is keeping it as an oem traditional-wrap single-rotor bass. (Years ago - when he began playing 3rd with this orchestra - he didn't even own a bass. Now, he's quite the competent/pleasure-to-work-with bass trombonist, and - differing from lesser players - hasn't dumped $6K - $8K into some super-boutique gimmick-bass.)
work shortcuts, to speed things up...??
You bet your life...such as heating BOTH ends of that short dogleg, and rotating it to the needed angle WITHOUT removing it and reinstalling it.
...and all sorts of other similar shortcuts.
...the letters...??
He stuck those on there (I suspect) to poke fun of me - poking fun of myself.
When I did the supplemental work (a couple of days ago) I measured across the main slide inside slide tubes.
Congrats due to him, he did NOT f-up the main slide's alignment when soldering on those letters.
bloke " 'We' don't work on that brand, because it's too hard to get parts."
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/tJEabNO.jpg)