Summary of different tuba shanks/tapers?...

[greenbean]

I know there has to be at least one thread that offers a good summary of tuba shanks. But I can't find one.

(There is probably one over on TN. But at least 1/3 of the posts will be missing.)

[LeMark]

Tuba mouthpiece shank sizes, a description.
As posted on TubeNet by Matt Walters » Tue Sep 27, 2005

A year or two ago, I made this simplified explanation of the different mouthpiece shank sizes and have sent it to my Dillon Music Customers when I needed to clear up confusion on the shank size issue.

TUBA SHANK SIZES

In the world of tuba mouthpieces, it seems there are five (5) general shank sizes and that, can lead to confusion. The Standard American and European Shank sizes, followed by the Large Shank, are the most common sizes that fit modern production tubas. From smallest to largest, we offer the following information to shed a little light on the subject.

SMALL EUROPEAN: Having a diameter of .490" at small end of shank, this size is offered by Dennis Wick in the sizes 1 through 5. Just make sure you order the one without the "L" in the model number. This size is most commonly used on old Besson tubas and old American Eb tubas. I hear this referred to as the Eb tuba size. Some old German, etc. 3/4 size BBb tubas have also shown up with that receiver size. If you are having trouble figuring out what small size shank your old tuba needs, it is about the same size as a large shank trombone mouthpiece. Borrow one from a trombonist and see for yourself. You can order a Denis Wick mouthpiece, or to have a wider variety of mouthpieces to choose from, consider replacing the receiver for about the price of a mouthpiece.

STANDARD AMERICAN: The reference point for this size of about .520" at the small end of the shank. A good example would be the Bach, and Conn Helleberg tuba mouthpieces. This is the most common size here in the United States. In the Dennis Wick line, you need to make sure it has the "L" in the model number to get this standard size. Our regular size shank Dillon Mouthpieces are also of this size. Besides American built horns, many European horns like Miraphone can use this size.

EUROPEAN SHANK: This is an increasingly popular shank size of about .530" diameter at the small end of the shank. It is found in mouthpieces like the JK Exclusive, Perantucci, Laskey "E" shank, and of course our wonderful Sheridan Series of mouthpieces. Most every European and American tuba built these days, will accept this shank size.

LARGE SHANK: This is a larger size that measures about .550" diameter at the small end of the shank. It works well on the larger European tubas. Especially horns with large diameter leadpipes like the "York" copies and most Alexander model 163 CC tubas. This is the size of our Dillon Music "L" shank mouthpiece and the new Wick 2XL.

KAISER SHANK: With a measurement of about .585" in diameter at the small end of the shank, this truly is a "Kaiser" size. It fits the largest Alexander model 164, a few ‘one off’ model 163's, and some original York receivers we've come across. Anyone needing this size shank will need to get a custom built mouthpiece, or have an adapter made.

I hope this explanation will be of help to you.

[greenbean]

Exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks to Mark and Matt!

[bloke]

more...but maybe TMI (??)

Some mouthpieces and receivers (more than a few) are made HALFWAY BETWEEN euro and standard...
Often, by makers who only offer/offered ONE shank size.

I made up the name "P" shank for this, because Perantucci (and Miraphone, and Schilke, etc...) seemed to follow this tack - at least, in the past.

Something else...
Most compensating Eb tubas seem to sport receivers that are large enough for "standard" shank mouthpieces, YET "old school" small-shank (right at "bass trombone" shank) mouthpieces do NOT bottom out in them. It's not uncommon for a small shank mouthpiece - at least , in my experience - to work better with those instruments than otherwise-identical standard shank ones.

When a small shank receiver features an extended length (to look "OK" with a standard shank mouthpiece) or a standard shank receiver features and extended length (to look "OK" with a euro shank mouthpiece), I (again...just me) refer to those receivers as "fake" standard and "fake" euro receivers.

[ParLawGod]

As someone who doubles on tuba (and always has to look up information on shanks when purchasing mouthpieces), this info is helpful. Thank you for posting it!

[Matt Walters]

Bloke: of course there will always be variations with in-between sizes. I wrote that list as a general info that will answer the needs of MOST people. For the Uber-Nerds of mouthpieces, it is a starting point.

[marccromme]

Same info there https://store.wedgemouthpiece.com/tuba-shanks/

[bloke]

Bloke: of course there will always be variations with in-between sizes. I wrote that list as a general info that will answer the needs of MOST people. For the Uber-Nerds of mouthpieces, it is a starting point.

no criticism from me... ‘ even labeled my post “tmi”

[humBell]

I was actually wondering how much taper varies, as most of the time, size does seem the main difference when trying weird mouthpieces in strange receivers...

[bloke]

I was actually wondering how much taper varies, as most of the time, size does seem the main difference when trying weird mouthpieces in strange receivers...

Most "weird receivers" (regardless of country of origin) seem to be a few of those which were formed from the ends of mouthpipe tubes (*covered with an over-part tube), rather than being created on a lathe (from solid brass) and soldered in place as an extension. The vast majority of manufactured mouthpieces' shank tapers - made all over the world, from French horn to "euro" shank tuba - lie somewhere along the Jarno taper...which is a single, (specific), ever-expanding angle...the angle (from the center) being 1.4321
_____________________________________
*the most common flaw in them being that the large/receiving end's bore of some of those receivers is too small...allowing for the small end of a mouthpiece to rattle (but occasionally the opposite). This most common problem (which such receivers) is easy to imagine being caused by the installation of the overpart tube swedging down the opening end of such a receiver - via a slightly-too-snug fit. When I've removed overparts, corrected the taper, and reinstalled the overparts, I've always had to watch out (reinstalling the overpart) that I didn't end up messing the tubing-formed receiver taper right back to its original messed-up angle.