The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

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Doc
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by Doc »

the elephant wrote: Wed Oct 21, 2020 10:51 pm The "miracle" of the Alex was that none of the longer alternate combos blew or sounded different than the open horn (even above the staff), and the 40¢ flat bottom line G was dead-on played 13 with the 1st out where it normally was for most notes. All Ds were played 13 and were stable and in-tune, and the 4th line F was also very in-tune with 1st in that position.
Very similar experience with my Rudy 3/4 CC. 1st line G and 4th space G was 13. D below the staff was best 13, as was D in the staff. Those notes were as resonant as any other and were not stuffy whatsoever.

The most disconcerting flaw I see a lot on newer horns is a 23 overtone series that is impossible to play well without moving the 3rd slide in or out by two inches as you pass through every other partial. Horns like this are the ones I sell first. I would rather have out of tune open notes that are predictable and lippable than a 23 series that is wonky. On horns like that it seems that the Eb below the staff is miles sharp, and to correct is ruins all of the Ab octaves. (I am sorry, but I am talking about CC tubas, specifically but I ought to be speaking in terms of partials since these issues are common to tubas of all keys.)
Maybe it's just me, but it seems that new models, while trying to improve on flaws/issues inherent in designs of old, bring new flaws/issues to the table. (The old vs. new F tuba discussion is just one example) I don't know about you, but I'm supremely pleased with the intonation of my vintage 186 (I bet yours qualifies as top shelf also). I don't know why they thought they could improve on it - I do not like the modern 186 CC half as much. I've owned a modern 186 CC, and I don't want another (unless maybe it was BBb). Bringing it back to Cerveny, those older designs can often be real gems (there are dogs, too), and even with a few intonation woes, they can be easily played in tune if you are willing to do what it takes. 13 on G and D ain't that big a deal on many older designs. They often speak cleanly and clearly - and as long as the entire instrument isn't an intonation nightmare, the problem is solved. Now... playing an F 13 and C in the staff 13 on a Conn 20J can be wonky and warbly.

I do, however, REALLY like my Hagen 496 an obviously modern tuba. Intonation on it is on par with a vintage 186 BBb - it's nearly plug-n-play. The low Gb needs a pull on 3 and pedal C 5234 requiring a big pull on 4. Everything else is close enough for government work. And I don't know that it sacrifices anything to achieve big clear sound with easy intonation.

Doc (exceptions to every rule, and... YMMV)


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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by bloke »

There are quite a few "exciting new models" that seem to offer the same "disappointing old problems"...with the only other differences being that they are (potentially) REALLY LOUD or that they look like Jake's old horn.

I look for (hopefully: manageably, and not-too) flat 5th-partial tubas, because from that group of tubas (in my experience) are found those with the FEWEST OTHER intonation issues.

My (very early issue) 5450 features a flat 5th partial (which is JUST lippable - by me, anyway), a subtly-flat 8th partial (perhaps a 1st valve "top C", etc.), and a subtly-sharp 2nd partial C (just below the staff - with the "slightly flabby embouchure" thing easily remedying that).

What's nice about the "1st slide stuff" is that ALL of the 1st valve pitches seem to be in-tune within 1/4" of each other, and SOME of the 1st-and-2nd valve pitches are (an inch farther out) all within 1/4" of each other, with SOME of the 1st-and-2nd valve pitches being in the same position as the 1st valve pitches...IN SUMMARY: very little 1st valve pumping required ...and the #1 slide is really easy to reach (though the "hole" and not "over the top") ...I move it with my thumb-and-index, holding on to it from the slide - grasping one of the slide ferrules).

...BUT I DIGRESS :red:
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by pjv »

the elephant wrote: Thu Oct 22, 2020 7:37 am The 3rd circuit normally drops the pitch by a minor 3rd; the 1st circuit is normally a major 2nd (or whole step). So your question generates from me a big "Huh?"

Did you mean a 3rd valve that could be tuned from a normal minor 3rd to a major 3rd (like 23 would normally net — two whole steps)? I have only ever heard of *very* old tubas using that system. I have heard of more recent valve interval systems whereby the 4th circuit is cut to drop the pitch by a major 3rd.

Forgive me if I am missing something, here. It is early and I have not yet had my "fix" of liquid caffeine. :coffee:
Sorry, yes. Maj 3rd instead of the normal minor third.
Not particularly very old tubas. The French used it longer than most and I've seen it in Vienna system tubas.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by pjv »

Doc wrote: Thu Oct 22, 2020 8:33 am Bringing it back to Cerveny, those older designs can often be real gems (there are dogs, too)
It's not just the older tubas but the not-so-old tubas and the new ones.
I sometimes wonder if this is because Cerveny is because manufactures their parts inconsistently or is it an inconstancy in assembly?
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by Stryk »

So glad to see this thread. I was bashed and laughed at on the other site because I think Cerveny makes some great horns. I have an older (70s) Amati I got from Earle Louder, and I play it more than I do my Mirafones or my Alex. It's light (a lot lighter than the 186), workable intonation, compact, and has a big sound. I am a fan.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by Doc »

pjv wrote: Fri Oct 23, 2020 1:42 am
Doc wrote: Thu Oct 22, 2020 8:33 am Bringing it back to Cerveny, those older designs can often be real gems (there are dogs, too)
It's not just the older tubas but the not-so-old tubas and the new ones.
I sometimes wonder if this is because Cerveny is because manufactures their parts inconsistently or is it an inconstancy in assembly?
I have wondered this also. Maybe the repair folk can offer the observations and experience...?
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by LeMark »

My amati is a great tuba, hard to believe I got it for $850. I think the amati name and modern reputation scared many people off from bidding, and the fact that it was a 4 valve tuba (was, past tense)

This is my 4th cerveny, they just feel like home to me.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by Stryk »

LeMark wrote: Fri Oct 23, 2020 6:53 am My amati is a great tuba
Exactly the same horn I have. More pitch issues than my 186, but still my go-to horn. It's a forever keeper.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by LeMark »

The only "adult" fingering I have to use is 1st valve for high C, instead of open. otherwise it's 20-25 cents flat.

2-4 fingerings seem to be sharper than normal on this horn, but after I added the 5th valve I realized that 23-5 is a great alternative for notes that are long enough to rally notice intonation issues

All in all, I think that's a win. Weird about the High C though, but 1st valve is a very acceptable and easy option to have
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by the elephant »

My 163 CC needed 1st for high C and 3 for high B. Hight Bb was still 1st, though, so I could not use 1-1 in series where it had to be fast. I would just play the C open and lip. If it was fast it sounded fine, even in unison with the bones.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by Stryk »

the elephant wrote: Fri Oct 23, 2020 10:04 am My 163 CC needed 1st for high C and 3 for high B.
My 186 is the same, with 3-4 for the Ab below it. Like all hand made horns, each has it's own little quirks.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by Matt Walters »

Mouthpiece for the Cerveny CCB601-4 quest:
Okay I went through the mouthpieces I had lying around the house. When the Dillon G-3 came out about 25 years ago, I played the prototype, told Steve Dillon he couldn't have it back because I loved it. I was playing either my old Cerveny 601 or the Yamaha YCB-861 at that time. I forget. By the way, I was right and the G-3 turned out to be the best seller in the Geib/M1C series of mouthpieces.
So I first gravitated towards the G-3 again. But after another week, I put my beloved Dillon G5B American shank in there. Low and behold, I was more secure with more accurate attacks top to bottom. I conclude I am not the same player I was 40 to 25 years ago. I also conclude that when I started playing this return to Cerveny tuba, I was in a temporarily more youthful state of mind.
A slightly bigger sound found in the Dillon G-3 and many other mouthpieces, is not worth the giving up of the security and clarity I get with my trusted old Dillon G5B. If someone needs the extra 2% bigger sound than what I can give, they can pay a pro instead of accepting this volunteer's free playing. Anyway, the G5 is the same as the G3 but with a smaller throat and the "B" meant the blank was made of the heavier Bronze. I had our Vladimir skeletonize my blank and I liked the "wiggle room" in the response better. Our current Dillon -Turner G5B comes with a beefier brass blank that would put the weight to about the same as what I finally settled on.
https://www.dillonmusic.com/dillon-musi ... outhpiece/

So I am back again to my new thinking of: select/modify the tuba to match the "Mouth to Instrument Interface Unit" that already feels best to me.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by bloke »

I'm with you on the mouthpiece philosophy...particularly when it comes to my F instruments, and my 9'-long B-flat euphitone-ish instruments.

bad analogy:...??

Just because I barely can carry my 20" bad-@$$ chainsaw 25 feet up into a tree doesn't mean its not a much better idea to carry my 16" big-enough chainsaw up there.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by Matt Walters »

A quick update.
1) A few months ago I made sleeves to fit inside the outer slide tubes of the 1st, second, 3rd and 4th outer tubes to fill the gaps of the slides pulled out to pitch. I beveled the sleeves and put the beveled edge into the wind flow. I got an improvement but not like the heavens opened or such.
2) Next, I made a half inch long sleeve at the 4th rotor to small outer main slide tube so that the main slide could still go all the way in. Again put the highly beveled edge into the airstream. No denying I got a quicker response that was more noticeable than what the other sleeves did.
3) The last thing I have done is bought and started using a Miraphone TU-28 mouthpiece with its shallow cup but large throat on this gib rotor tuba. Very close to the specs of the old original PT-23. It lit up this tuba for me. I'm just saying.

It's been a fun project and has turned into a "Good" tuba. It's fun to play, light in weight, I get complements on the sound, it's more than good enough in-tune for community band work and didn't cost me a fortune.
Bb, B natural, and C at the top of the staff are still 20 cents flat without lipping or pushing in the slides. I never need those notes in community band. That stuffy G an octave below the staff has gotten a lot better but is still not a point and shoot as the rest of the notes. All said, I like this tuba.
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by bloke »

@Matt Walters

Are those three eighth partial pitches any higher with ninth partial fingerings?

1, 1-2, 2-3 …??

Congratulations on the instrument ! :smilie8:
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Re: The QUEST for a Great Cerveny CCB601-4 CC tuba

Post by Matt Walters »

Yes. If I have to sit on them, I'll used those alternate fingerings or lip up. The Bb I can just push in the 1st slide.
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