...if someone REALLY wants to compare how various ones compare on the "Stinkter Scale"

yah, i've been thinking about the odor and not sure i want to put that stuff in the horn... i'll get by with it like it is for the time being. it's really not all that bad... noone hears me play it but me... you're welcome
I have decided that I am going to start using liquids in special spray cans or oilers as bulk liquids are, as you pointed out, much cheaper. My main sin is brake cleaner or carb cleaner, which I use (stupidly) on a lot of stuff. Non-residue brake cleaner has trichloroethane (Solvent 111 — which at work we called "chlorothene", probably incorrectly) and is the best parts degreaser in the world if you don't mind an early death. I also want a parts washer so I can run solvents through a filter and recover/reuse them. But then you get into the endless list of "I Want" items, like a media blasting booth, a powder coating setup, an English Wheel, etc. It never really ends. But using solvents and cleaners in liquid form in pump-sprayers or whatever is becoming very attractive to me as I see how much spray cans waste, how much they cost, and how quickly they become empty.Rick Denney wrote: ↑Tue May 03, 2022 10:48 amAfter my AeroKroil runs out, I'll buy it in gallons and use a squeeze bottle.
Why do you keep bringing up rust? We are talking about non-ferrous metals, here. As I said in reply to you earlier, I only mentioned rust to Unk, in response to his choice of Kroil.
Most of us are. And I mentioned it, but not by name. It is 50/50 acetone and ATF. It works better than anything else except for some of these fancy, new fluids, like Seafoam's Deep Creep, which may be very highly regarded, but still has not done much for me any better than Kroil or the 50/50 mix (when I am out of other stuff and have to mix my own).
Acetone is an organic solvent that will attack finishes, so best to be careful around painted stuff. It's a great prep for painting, though, and I keep a can here.the elephant wrote: ↑Tue May 03, 2022 12:00 pmMost of us are. And I mentioned it, but not by name. It is 50/50 acetone and ATF. It works better than anything else except for some of these fancy, new fluids, like Seafoam's Deep Creep, which may be very highly regarded, but still has not done much for me any better than Kroil or the 50/50 mix (when I am out of other stuff and have to mix my own).
I
Hi-bloke wrote: ↑Mon May 02, 2022 8:44 am Slide-yanking is dangerous, (often) not effective, and (often) results in bad damage, including damage to non-replaceable parts.
Depending on how well braced, CAREFUL/SENSITIVE sideways slide TWISTING can be an effective way to bust loose lime and/or hardened old slide grease. As even a SLIGHT amount of rotation of both pairs of tubes is often enough to bust them loose.
"Slide pliers" are not as bad as slide "yanking", but can also result in additional damage.
REMOVING (un-soldering) the slide bow and ROTATING (carefully) each of the two tubes free INDIVIDUALLY is - sometimes - what must be done.
I used this technique on my recently-purchased Miraphone 98, whereby the bottom located #4 slide was severely stuck.
(Even that method - on that particular slide - BARELY worked, and - had I been less sensitive - I could EASILY have trashed this $2X,XXX instrument.)
Followed up by polishing and re-lacquering, this results in a damage-free repair.
Many, though, dislike the idea of taking it to a repair person, and - well - some repair people are "hacks", and yank on slides.
Do I occasionally engage in somewhat risky slide-removal techniques? YES...but I can FIX what I might screw up.
Finally, many VERY strong people do not have particularly-strong hands/wrists, with (mostly) their upper arms being strong, yet their hands being not-so-strong. I've not seen workout gyms with hand-strengthening equipment in place.