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1-2 B is fine, strangely enough.

1-3 is better, but boy, does it not feel secure. I’ll give it a fair chance with a valve alignment when it’s in next, but 1-3 feels really, well, not secure up there.

I know I already suggested this but I'm going to try to lay it out more clearly. Maybe you can forgive me because I'm really interested in you having an instrument that you will enjoy playing and without having to put a four-valve valveset on it really soon.

Is the 2-3 combination up to pitch, or is it flat? Before answering this for yourself realize that it's probably just about the most inconsistent-tuning valve combination. so if low F-sharp is sharp, the F-sharp at the bottom of the staff is flat, and the C-sharp below the staff is kind of about right, that's probably just about the ideal length for the third circuit.

It seems like the third circuit is about right, are you able to pull out your first slide far enough so as low E and B natural (1-2-3) are actually flat? If you can, that means that you have room to trim off your #1 slide in order to push it in far enough to get your first valve C up to (or closer to) pitch (on-the-fly). I don't think I can state it anymore clearly.

If your #3 circuit is too long and almost all of the 2-3 pitches are flat, it's not going to be easy to answer this series of questions.

You’re pretty spot on. The first slide will be cut.

Also, I was able to place an order for the Willson euph valve guides through SE Shires today. Very easy.

It seems they are the go-to people distributing Willson parts these days. Good to know.

I’ll update when I get those fitted.

Valve guides came in from Shires. $4 per guide. This tuba is now BACK at Keith's!

He'll fit the guides, either fix or make a new second valve stem, and I am having the first slide cut as well.

This tuba will then stay un-messed with for a while! This is hopefully the final step in getting an as easy-playing as possible Holton 340.

This instrument is back from Keith's shop. I am a very happy camper.

Remember, it went in for the second valve stem and valve guide retrofit, as well as a cut to the first slide.

It came out with 3 new stems, 3 new MW buttons, freshly aligned valves, and greased/cleaned tuning slides. No cut yet.

Why, you ask? Well, 1-3 pitches in the mid register are actually usable now and I am able to center them without trouble. 1-3 C lines right up and isn't terribly flat like the first valve. G and Gb feel much better too. It is so much easier to play, Keith told me to play it awhile, use some alternates, and bring it back if I still can't deal.

I think I'll be able to deal. It certainly requires slide pulling. The nature of a 3-valve instrument.

The valves feel so good with the new guides. Absolutely worth the upgrade if you have an old instrument with metal guides.

The only other thing I might add is a pull bar on the 3rd tuning slide. It's narrow enough that I think a pull bar would help. Other than that, I think we're done here. I'll update as more happens, such as the slide cut, more dent work, etc. But for now, it's done, and I think I'll play it on my final concert of the season, the entirety of Carmina Burana with real singers. I think it'll do very well.

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Front view. Those MW buttons make the horn look so much better.

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New guides, new stems that Keith made for the horn.

I had a 340 for awhile that had pull handles on 1st and 3rd. I took them off but still have them. They were soldered on via a cap, like most 2nd valve pull rings are. Pm me your address if you’d like them and I’ll send them.

The horn looks terrific. Now it is time to play!!

Thank-You, Jason, for sending me some pull bars. Once my F tuba is done, I'll have them put on. I appreciate you.

Joe's Orchestra Grand mouthpiece:

I've had one lying around for several years. I used it on a MRP-C for a little while, tried it on the HB-2P, and 5450RA, but it was never a perfect match for any of those instruments.

I read your post about trying a Grand in your model 98, and realized that this instrument is really big as well. I dug through my stuff and found it, thankfully, it is a EURO shank that I had mated to it.

I'm really liking it. Really. Like, a lot. New mouthpieces are fun, and there's always a honeymoon period. I'll probably keep this one stuck in there for a good long while. I did pick up a 33P rim because, well, I wanted it.

As I play this tuba more, (and it will very likely be the one used on Easter. I thought my F tuba would be done, but Keith got sick. He's okay!) I find that my intonation is improving immensely. I didn't have the slide cut as you know, and probably won't at this point. That C is still flat, but warmed up, it's only about 10-15c flat instead of the 40 when cold. I normally practice in my basement, but brought this instrument upstairs to the warmth and it is certainly better.

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Pull bars. This will be very nice at least on the 3rd slide. Unlike most Holtons, these are well-aligned.

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Orchestra Grand+Grand Euro shank, 33P rim. One happy camper.

Quite welcome Sir. Obviously the pull bars came out of their sockets a bit when I unsoldered them from my 340.

Glad you might put them to use.

I'd be curious as to how the mouthpiece is working out (as my instrument features the same bell profile, but a longer mouthpipe and different bore size).

Also...
(No, I'm not trying to sell you anything). Do you have access to an inside micrometer?

YES...Holton 34X receivers are widely accepted as being "euro", but - if you can measure the choke point (even with someone's set of 100 drilled dent balls) - you with know whether that receiver will also accommodate a standard shank (as I believe I've noticed that - often - the less receiver reverse taper exposed, the more immediate is the response and maybe just a bit more overtone play in the resonance as well).

bloke "gap gappity gap gap...gap gap...man, am I tired of seeing the word 'gap' to used in conjunction with this topic."

bloke wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2024 10:30 am(as I believe I've noticed that - often - the less receiver reverse taper exposed, the more immediate is the response and maybe just a bit more overtone play in the resonance as well).

When I was at the Army tuba conference, I tried out a bunch of different mouthpieces for my BB-345. Ended up with the Laskey TU 32H US. I also tried the euro version, but I liked how the US played more.

Thanks for the example.

I've also seen extended outward "faux euro" receivers on one of the Chinese 6/4 C instruments and on (all except for a short period of time, in the past) King 124X/234X tubas.

ie. Inside, they taper all the way down to a typical "standard" size, but extend outward/longer/farther to appear make euro shank mouthpieces look "right" in them.

again...Anyone can say all the mumbo-jumbo they wish to say/believe.
I only say, that (quibbling word) PERHAPS mouthpieces shouldn't extend past the choke point and into the mouthpipe tube.

bloke "As previously stated, I'm tired of drawing demonstrative pictures over-and-over....Go practice."