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the elephant wrote: ↑Mon May 17, 2021 6:03 pm I'm still looking at putting some sort of "label" on my Holton, but I'm not sure what I want to affix to it after so much of it is MY design (or corrective work). I don't have a "brand" and "Rackley" is a singularly terrible business name. I have goofed around with my Elephant image, and that will probably be what I go with. It fits the physical form of the tuba and does not contain my goofy name.

I do not want a name on it except for "Holton" but I want to leave something for the person who buys it after I die. I have thought of having the old WWII "KILROY" image engraved on some nickel silver and fitting it within the B&S MTS brace window". I think that would be funny and would show that the horn is not "stock" to an observant person.

I really want to use that nice brace, but I won't do the work needed to install it to my 1st slide until I know for certain what I want to show within that window. And there isn't really anything all that attractive to me, right now. So I am at a bit of a loss. I still like the enameled insert idea, but the elephant logo is pretty silly, and I can't think of anything else. I must be "too close" to this. I can't see the forest for all the trees.

I really like your "JS" idea. It is very nicely cut and installed, and it looks great.

cjk wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 8:12 am @bloke, I'm curious about how effective the extended low register intonation is with the flat half step 5th valve below low F. I suspect it's actually quite decent??

I figure you're missing just one note, low B above pedal B flat.

low F = 4th. (good...pull upper #4 1/2-inch out farther than in-tune "C" position for critical tuning of this pitch)
low E = 4+5. (good)
Low Eb = 2+4+5 (probably a bit sharp). or 1,2,4 (probably a bit flat) 2,4,5 (pull upper #4 - where I've installed a stop-rod, for a perfect low E-flat)
low D = 2,3,4 (or maybe 1,2,4,5, one of those is probably good)
low Db = 2,3,4,5 (good)
low C = 1,2,3,4,5. (in the ballpark?) 1,3,4,5 (pull upper #4 all the way out to stop-rod end)
low B = missing 1,2,3,4,5 (pull upper #1 and upper #4 out all the way, and pull upper #3 out halfway)

Other than one missing note, is it any better or worse than a flat whole step? proven, nearly immediately, to be a superior system for BB-flat

cjk wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 8:54 amWade, you might consider looking for "elephant belt buckle" on ebay.

bloke wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 11:24 am @the elephant

My vote strongly goes to this.
Just hold on to the B&S thing for something else, and make your own cross brace for this thing...

bloke wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 11:24 am @the elephant

My vote strongly goes to this.
Just hold on to the B&S thing for something else, and make your own cross brace for this thing...

Measures: 1.75" (w) x 1.31" (h)

bloke wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 12:16 pm

Measures: 1.75" (w) x 1.31" (h)

It's a nice, big, revealing picture (kudos to the seller for that), but the ACTUAL size is stated as quoted above.

Is c. 7.5mm taller than an inch too much too tall...??

the elephant wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 11:55 am I am looking for subtlety, here…

the elephant wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 2:05 pm

matt g wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 3:52 pm Put the belt buckle on a leather belt and put the belt around the throat of your tuba and you’ll be magically transported back to 1994 when those things made a difference.