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Interesting that it shipped with a Bach 18-alike.

That’s what my preferred mouthpiece was when I owned a YFB-621 some 25 years ago.

I’ve been using my real yfb621(though with 16’’ Jin bao bell) a lot lately. I’m 6’ tall, average arm length. I have no wrist problems. I removed the thumb ring and let my hand float naturally. I find my fingers don’t hit the valve buttons with finger tips, but in various positions along the finger. I don’t play hours per day. Works for me. I’ve owned maybe 5-6 f tubas of all sorts. This one has the least drama of any. I do have a main tuning slide stick installed. I buzz a note-it plays that note, pretty much every time. The sound is not magical. The low register with a lot of valves is a bit strident when pushed. Valuable tool and great in many situations. Ymmv

Messing with those tubas never bothered me either...it's just the wonky (by necessity) plumbing thing.

"ergonomics"...I read about it, but rarely have found a tuba that - somehow - I can't sit and play for a while...as long as the scale/tuning isn't terrible.

matt g wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 9:37 am Interesting that it shipped with a Bach 18-alike.

That’s what my preferred mouthpiece was when I owned a YFB-621 some 25 years ago.

It's actually not a terrible fit with the tuba, but it's a bit mellow. I could see using it if you were doing some ensemble work. I like a little zippier.

arpthark wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 8:13 am
Yeah, the factory contacted me and said that they ran out of fifth valve mechanisms and were going to put an "improved" fifth valve linkage on mine, FWIW.

Not sure what's up with the after-ring thing I'm getting. It might actually be a blob of machining gunk in a valve circuit. It improved after I cleaned it but I am still getting it a bit on D in the staff. Otherwise, tuba is great. Are your valve guides black plastic? I've never seen ones like that before. They look 3D printed or something.

Interesting. From the pictures, your 5th valve mechanism looks identical to mine. It is light . . . But a little too light and sluggish compared to others I’ve experienced. Yes on the strange black nylon valve guides, but they are functional and silent. I’ll check my serial number when I get home . . . Kind of hard to miss it, being right there on the receiver.
Also, the extra loop in the MTS exit and 4th valve tubing is making me a bit nervous about condensation during performance, as is that wierd dogleg on the bottom of the 3rd slide. We shall see. No condensation issues thus far, though.
One other thought: do your valves look like they have monel coating? Mine do.

Glad it arrived safely!

I can't tell, is there anything engraved on the bell?

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 12:23 pm Glad it arrived safely!

I can't tell, is there anything engraved on the bell?

Nope, incognito tuba. I could've gotten an engraving for extra.

ARPTHARK'S TOOBAH EMPORIUM

eh?

arpthark wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 12:54 pm

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 12:23 pm Glad it arrived safely!

I can't tell, is there anything engraved on the bell?

Nope, incognito tuba. I could've gotten an engraving for extra.

ARPTHARK'S TOOBAH EMPORIUM

eh?

Total
Universal
Bombastic
Annihilation

Blake and Son's
New London County, Connecticut
since 1659**


**one could assume?

Benedict Arnold is from around here. Maybe this could be a BENEDICT model?

Stick a European sounding first name onto a school of music (of varying quality) and get a tuba brand

Fibonacci Juilliard
Janos Berklee
Ronaldo Fairsail

matt g wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 1:16 pm Stick a European sounding first name onto a school of music (of varying quality) and get a tuba brand

Fibonacci Juilliard
Janos Berklee
Ronaldo Fairsail

Giacomo University of Kentucky School of Music

I can think of an actual name of one close by, but I'm stopping right here.

Bach University of Southern North Dakota at Hoople.

"Eastperson"

bloke wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 8:16 am I'm thinking that Yamaha reused the YEB-321 top-action valve block, when they began to build those instruments.

To me, it seems just a bit funny (funny-ironic) that a copy would feature the same valve block (as it was built from scratch, and could have been something else).

If it plays good, it plays good.

Agree on the YEB-321 top-action valve block. I have thought that as well.

I'm dumbfounded that somebody hasn't copied one of these, but made them with a 16" bell and a King 2341-style (ie, "normal") valve section. I recommended this to Jonathan several times years ago.

The body of this tuba would have made a good starting point for a "modern" compensated F tuba, a significantly better starting point than an old Besson or Boosey IMHO.

Thanks for the review on this. I've had a Mack 422 for a couple of year, I'd guess it's a BBb 4v version of what you got. I know the 422 plays reasonably well for what it is. It certainly isn't the horn that holds me back. Your horn didn't cost that much more than the Mack. I'd like a smaller tuba for covering bass bone parts when bass bone ergonomics becomes unmanageable. I use a DE contrabass trombone mouthpiece with it, which makes it far more familiar feeling, but gives a different flavor altogether. 4 valves would probably work just fine for me, but the 5th would just be a bonus. Interesting instrument.

Thanks. I have to say, with the reputation of Chinese instruments and my own experience with a Schiller euph (maybe 3-4 years old?) I was expecting a lot more work to get this thing ready for prime time. Slides are well-aligned with no hang-ups caused by bad geometry. My euph has some slide alignment issues and noticeable solder blobs, weird-fitting ferrules, some evidence of bad buffing that was lacquered over, etc. The only things fit/finish wise with this tuba that are noticeably worse than I'd expect from an instrument 3-4x as expensive:

some sharp edges on machined parts (watch your palms/fingers on the inside threads of valve caps)

cheap-feeling mother-of-pearl inlays

The after-ring/resonance thing is almost gone now; I am not getting it all the time. I think there is a chunk of something that needs to get flushed out and it will be good to go. Once the weather warms up a bit I'll take it outside with the hot water hose and see if anything comes of that.

I'm playing this all the time at home now; it is a great tuba to "pick up and play."

I figured out what is causing the weird buzz I am getting. I thought it was gunk in the tuba.

The port in the third piston, in the "open" position (that is, the port on that piston that routes air flow through the main bugle, and not through the third valve circuit) is slightly deformed, with a small bump that is slightly disrupting airflow. I am hoping I can take this to my repairman to get it burnished smooth. Can post a pic later for you all to dissect.

I came to this conclusion because this buzzing goes away when the third valve is engaged. Taking the third piston out and examining it, there is just the slightest little wrinkle in the port.

If all else fails, I will see about ordering a new third piston. I wonder if a real Yamaha one (like from a YBB-103) would work...? Doubtful.

For the price, I can't say I am surprised that something wasn't perfect, and hopefully this isn't too expensive of a fix.

I have had a valve spring buzz before. I'm wondering if you can play around with removing the 3rd spring and manually move the valve up and down and see if it goes away.

cjk wrote: ↑Tue Apr 25, 2023 8:34 am I have had a valve spring buzz before. I'm wondering if you can play around with removing the 3rd spring and manually move the valve up and down and see if it goes away.

Good piece of advice, but I've goofed around with the springs quite a bit, and also played around with swapping the 3rd and 1st pistons. The problem is following the 3rd piston around: buzz when disengaged, no buzz when engaged.

edit: I am moving this issue to the repair forum.