TubaForum.net

I suspect that the bottom of the weird looking stop arm there might be dragging on the top of the rotor bearing when you really tighten that screw down and pull the stop arm down as low as it can go on the valve stem.

The good news is that it's really easy to fix, if that's the problem. If you study the situation and ascertain that my guess is correct, about all you have to do is take the stop arm off and file a little bit off the bottom of it so it doesn't bottom out when it's tightened down all the way.

Willson linkages are like slack action on a freight train

That happened to me, too. Can't remember what the solution was when I had the linkages replaced. Otherwise I'd probably use blue loctite or something. (And I'm sure that's probably a bad idea for some reason...?)

Personally, I'm not really convinced that the Kuraths really understand tubas nor their mechanics nor ergonomics.

But they mostly build their instruments from scratch, and that's way more than I can do.

One thing we can ALL agree on is that their dumb choices to overthink simple things like rotor linkage, rotor valves (if it ain't broke, don't fix it!) and thumb-ring locations, really sour the experience of playing their instruments. To be clear, I really, really like this tuba. Once I have my list of modifications done, I hope I am DONE F tuba shopping.

For those curious, that list is:
Clean/remove reachable dents (Monday)
Move thumb ring (Monday)
Replace "finger buttons" on rotor paddles (Summer 2023)
Cut valves down to normal rotary valves (Summer 2023)
Replace stupid Willson linkage with uniball conversion from Dana Hofer (Not sure when I'll do this yet, 2024?)
Precisely align 4th slide, add pull ring/slide stop for left thumb, 4th slide to allow for in-tune low G (Not sure yet, 2024?)
Move fifth valve paddle further up (Same deal, 2024?)

Ergonomically, it's fine as far as valve and slide placement for the most part, it's just functionally overdone for the sake of being overdone.

The closer I look at it, the other arms have a tiny little plastic washer-looking thing under them that is missing on the 4th valve. That seems to prevent it from clamping down the stem enough to prevent movement. Somebody probably took the 4th valve's linkage off for whatever reason and lost that little washer.

Could you take a closeup shot of the linkage if you have a moment? I am just curious.

[

.

I thought I'd update this thread too while I'm here.

Yesterday I got my Willson back from it's spa treatment. What a difference! The rotors are less loud and still a little heavy. But, my hands don't turn black from touching it, and it doesn't smell anymore.

As Keith and I were talking, he mentioned several things.

Remember that bottom bow? Keith thinks that this tuba has sustained some decent damage in it's past, but has been repaired *really* well. That's coming from some misaligned slide tubes and braces that are in a slightly different spot than before. His guess is that the horn took a hit that pushed things in and slightly upward from the bottom. Not unlike Wade's Kurath. I wonder if the same person owned both

What happened? No idea. This tuba plays GREAT, it just has some slightly weird geometry (that he can fix, but he and I agreed to not bother with it yet, it's not hurting anything). Most wouldn't notice anything is off about it, anyway.

Anyway, the thumb ring- he didn't move it, because there's a big ol' brace in the way. I might take it off entirely, or might see what is on the newer versions of this model. I saw in one of their social media posts some adjustable-looking ring on a slider. Probably costs a small fortune. Keith also offered to make something to work better, too. I like the "saddle" that's on the Tuono- not a full circle ring, but it's nicely placed.

Still looking at my gig bag options as I do not have one. Torn between splurging on a Cronkhite or the 1291 Miraphone bag.

Those rotors will lighten up (and the bore through the rotors will be larger as well) if you cut out that metal - on both sides of the rotors - between those round holes (which offer the illusion of a round bore through those rotors).

- hacksaw
- file
- 250 grit
- 600 grit
- 1000 grit

bloke wrote: ↑Wed Jun 07, 2023 4:55 pm Those rotors will lighten up (and the bore through the rotors will be larger as well) if you cut out that metal - on both sides of the rotors - between those round holes (which offer the illusion of a round bore through those rotors).

- hacksaw
- file
- 250 grit
- 600 grit
- 1000 grit

Yessir. I don't trust myself to do it, but Mr. Wilk will! Later this summer I'll update when I send them out/receive them.

For me, this was another case of "I'm more than happy to pay somebody else the money to do this instead of me screwing it up."

I got a bag for this tuba. And boy, did I get a great deal.

This is an old Reunion Blues bag, and it fits just about perfectly. At least, as perfect as one can get for the price I paid. I don't know what it was originally made for, but my guess is a compensating Eb of some sort.

The catch? It's got a broken zipper. I'm taking it to a shoe & luggage repair place in my area that's gotten nothing but great reviews. So, all in, I should be in this bag just over $100. I'd call that a deal.

[
Front view

[
Great fit

[
The worst of the zipper damage