Re: CHEAP headphones for listening to tuba on phone/laptop
Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2024 1:11 pm
It’s useful to know what performance levels are actually distinguishable. Generally, old Japanese consumer receivers (including that Realistic) had reasonable electronics. The crappy stuff was the house-brand stuff from places like Olson Electronics, but Lafayette and Radio Shack sold better stuff. It was typical to see distortion figures in the 0.5-0.8 range. In dB terms, that’s distortion overtones (hence “harmonic distortion”) 50ish dB down from the signal. Harmonic distortion that low is hard to hear when playing music. The much bigger weakness of that stuff was linearity, load dependency, and clipping caused by lack of power. The spectral tilt resulting from poor linearity is easy to hear, but a drop off in the top octave not so much, especially for us old people.
Speakers in those days, especially at the cheap end of the spectrum, had higher impedance, which helped with load dependency.
Lack of power coupled with clipping behavior is the real problem, and I think at the root of many of the old truisms, such as solid-state bring harsh. I have no use for inadequate power, even if the distortion level is at -90 dB.
My stereo from college was a Kenwood 40-watt integrated amplifier, a Technics belt-drive turntable (their bottom of the line), and a pair of Advent loudspeakers. I still have it and it still works well. But it will clip if I try to listen at realistic levels (like if I want to play along), and long ago I bought a 200-watt Spectro Acoudtics amp plus a nice Onkyo preamp.
The Spectro amp released its magic smoke a couple of times, and I replaced it with a Carver commercial PA amp. I replaced that with a much more powerful Samson commercial amp. When I bought a B&K amp of much better specification, I didn’t hear a difference.
I’m now using an inexpensive Hypex NC502MP Class D amp from Buckeye in my main system, and at 350 watts/channel, I can play the recording as loudly as it seems on stage so that I can play along and not hold back. But even it will clip slightly if I play, say, a drum solo recorded without compression at realistic levels.
I’ve had to refoam the woofers in my Advents a couple of times, and have replaced a couple of tweeters in the two pairs of Advents I now own. I use a pair in my YouTube-watching workout room, which is what the garage turned into when I built the shop, along with the B&K amp. In my main system, I installed a pair of used Revel F12 tower speakers, and that’s where the investment makes a difference.
So, even though I’m an enthusiast I’m certainly no audiophile in the sense of buying what today gets praise from magazines like Stereophile. (Except for the speakers—but the Stereophile reviewer that praised those is a friend whose senses are honed by measurements.) But I’d bet not many people would be able to tell the difference in a truly blind test.
But upstairs that old Kenwood still plays CDs through an old pair of Canton speakers, and it sounds great at the volume levels it’s intended to provide.
Rick “nothing wrong with economical choices” Denney
Speakers in those days, especially at the cheap end of the spectrum, had higher impedance, which helped with load dependency.
Lack of power coupled with clipping behavior is the real problem, and I think at the root of many of the old truisms, such as solid-state bring harsh. I have no use for inadequate power, even if the distortion level is at -90 dB.
My stereo from college was a Kenwood 40-watt integrated amplifier, a Technics belt-drive turntable (their bottom of the line), and a pair of Advent loudspeakers. I still have it and it still works well. But it will clip if I try to listen at realistic levels (like if I want to play along), and long ago I bought a 200-watt Spectro Acoudtics amp plus a nice Onkyo preamp.
The Spectro amp released its magic smoke a couple of times, and I replaced it with a Carver commercial PA amp. I replaced that with a much more powerful Samson commercial amp. When I bought a B&K amp of much better specification, I didn’t hear a difference.
I’m now using an inexpensive Hypex NC502MP Class D amp from Buckeye in my main system, and at 350 watts/channel, I can play the recording as loudly as it seems on stage so that I can play along and not hold back. But even it will clip slightly if I play, say, a drum solo recorded without compression at realistic levels.
I’ve had to refoam the woofers in my Advents a couple of times, and have replaced a couple of tweeters in the two pairs of Advents I now own. I use a pair in my YouTube-watching workout room, which is what the garage turned into when I built the shop, along with the B&K amp. In my main system, I installed a pair of used Revel F12 tower speakers, and that’s where the investment makes a difference.
So, even though I’m an enthusiast I’m certainly no audiophile in the sense of buying what today gets praise from magazines like Stereophile. (Except for the speakers—but the Stereophile reviewer that praised those is a friend whose senses are honed by measurements.) But I’d bet not many people would be able to tell the difference in a truly blind test.
But upstairs that old Kenwood still plays CDs through an old pair of Canton speakers, and it sounds great at the volume levels it’s intended to provide.
Rick “nothing wrong with economical choices” Denney