Asia-manufactured tubas equipped with subpar valves (and subpar slides)
Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2021 8:15 am
It's really easy to raise people's dander, which discussing inexpensive equipment, and discussing what is widely encountered - in the repair shop - encourages anecdotal/single/individual reports (only involving one instrument owned by one person) that both agree with and contradict reports of wide general experience. I would encourage anyone to keep that in mind, when reading this.
===================================
With brass instrument valves (whether piston or rotary) there are a handful of requirements:
- reasonably airtight
- quick motion
- reliable motion
- (for most users/performers) quiet motion
All of these requirements depend heavily on manufacturing tolerances.
Regardless of where a piece of equipment is manufactured (and today, a tremendous percentage of all sorts of products are made in Asia), if design, tolerances, and materials are all superb, there is less likelihood of problems. "Fast" manufacturing doesn't necessarily equal "bad" manufacturing, if "fast" is ALSO nearly perfect...and there are some people who do nearly-perfect work who are also fast at doing it (simply because they do JUST what is absolutely required - no more, and no less...as either "more" or "less" could easily destroy that which they are fabricating).
Specifically with brass instrument valves, when these standards are kept consistently high, this eliminates most problems - other than damage and contaminants (lime, dirt, foreign substances, improper lubricants/cleansers, etc.)
Observation tells me a lot of money has changed hands via the sales of low-build-tolerances sub-$2XXX tubas (replicas of $9XXX instruments), and even some of the same build quality in the (replicas of $16XXX instruments) over-$5XXX price range.
Having agreed to do work on quite a few of these instruments sold to people who live within two or three hours of my shop (bought - typically - from online outlets), I see (and funny to use this word) "consistent" epic slide alignment issues, inside-outside slide tolerance issues (as wildly misaligned slides probably cannot be inserted nor extracted unless the individual pairs of tubes' fit is very loose), and (much more impacting than slide tolerance issues) valve tolerance issues.
I remember (two or three decades ago) when both the piston and rotor tolerances were "consistently" unacceptable from certain identifiable outlets/overseas manufacturers. As they are simple cylinders, the pistons seem to improved more (with the low-end Asia-made instruments) though the quality of the porting (brass tubes which pass through the hollow piston bodies) often continues to pull hard at my eyebrow.
The low-end Asia-made instruments' rotary valves continue to cause headaches and - via sympathy for those who've purchased these instruments - cause me to tend to undercharge for the amount of time spent to attempt to make them run reliably (as there really is no proper "repair" other than "replace" - with something such as a complete set of Meinlschmidt rotor assemblies...for an "upgrade" cost roughly equivalent to the "new" prices of these complete instruments, but - even were that done, the epic tuning slide issues...loose-fitting tubes and wildly-off alignment...would continue to exist, so... )
Again, poor tolerances go hand-in-hand with inconsistent results, with some consumers encountering little-to-no problems, and others encountering very "consistent" (again: an ironic word to find myself using) problems. When removable bearing rotor bearing plates are even only .0005" too tight, it becomes very difficult to micro-adjust both their "tilt" and their in/out position - in relation to the rotor body, because - well - it's difficult to "micro-adjust" something when (ok...) "beating the crap out of it" is what is required to cause it to barely budge.
Another issue with hurriedly-manufactured rotary valve assemblies is "on center" issues. When lathes are worn, not the best, and/or their bearing are not maintained, machining "slop" becomes an issue, and things that need to be perfectly circular and perfectly symmetrical end up not being so. When that is the case, the only way for a rotor to turn in its casing is loose lateral (left/right) bearings fit. Since valve stems fitting loosely is not an option (too immediately-apparent to consumers) the other option is to make the center holes in the removable "back" bearing plates oversize...thus rendering those back bearings as only "for show" and not actually functioning as bearings. When all this is the situation, the valve stem becomes the only real bearing and (yikes!) the interior large surfaces of the valve casing itself become the defacto other "bearing". This being the case, even a sub-.001" wobble in a rotor valve stem quickly becomes a +.001" or even +.0015" or (whoa!) +.002" wobble down at the bottom end of the rotor body (against its casing wall) and - guess what...?? - that inconsistent improper friction between the rotor body and the casing wall = intermittent/inconsistent hanging rotors, with hapless consumers regularly contacting an (eye-squinting, yet sympathetic) bloke.
Further (as there is a great deal of torque applied to rotor valve stems) that upper bearing tends to wear more quickly, whereas the bottom (removable) bearing wears very slowly. I have some old "junk" Miraphone (several decades of school use) rotors which date back to the 1960's, and their lower-bearing wobble is still-to-this-day only slight, whereas new hurriedly-manufactured-in-Asia rotors bearings often offer so much wobble as to allow the edges of the bearing plates (when tilted this-way-and-that with fingers) to touch the rotor bodies themselves...so yes: 50-year-old school-worn Miraphone rotors are often still completely reliable, whereas new hurriedly-manufactured rotors are often completely unreliable.
When I try to help someone with these issues, I simply cannot be getting on my lathe, manufacturing them a new set of removable bearings, and charging them (??) $500 - $800, as [1] such a repair is out-of-proportion with the new acquisition cost of the complete instrument, and [2] "perfect"/tight bearings would not allow these rotors to rotate (as -again - they are so often built "off-center")...so I do some "hail-Mary" lapping, cleaning, inspecting of surfaces for "where do these parts tend to inappropriately rub against each other the most", etc. ie. "b.s." ...
...and BECAUSE the only financially-appropriate remedy is "b.s.", (again) I tend to undercharge for my time, because I feel somewhat guilty charging for short-term remedies which are not actually repairs...
...so the wide distribution of this equipment tends to be lose-lose (lose for the consumer, and lose for the repair-guy), with the only winners being the importers/retailers of these items.
- The consumer ends up with shiny/unreliable equipment with "potential" (ie. "if only this instrument had valves and slides which worked", etc...)
- The repair-guy ends up undercharging out of sympathy, and is made to look bad because they are unable to completely remedy problems which are not able to be properly remedied (again, without swapping out complete valvesets).
OK...yes: I sell some Asian products...but not all Eastern Hemisphere instrument manufacturing is equal (just as all Western Hemisphere manufacturing is not equal). I feel quite certain that - buying through another company that actually purchases the instruments from the factory - I'm paying a fairly heavy wholesale mark-up over "dock" pricing, but - that having been said - I'm only selling instruments that (based on experience) I can drop-ship to customers - if necessary - straight from the warehouse (without me having to unpack and "check" them), and - 99 times out of 100 - they are issue-free - with pistons/casings, rotors/casings, inside-outside slide tube fit, and slide alignment that all closely resembles (under deep scrutiny) central European manufacturing standards.
I don't believe (??) that I'm an "equipment snob". Rather, I'm a few other things:
- I'm LAZY, because I just want to SELL a new instrument, NOT attempt to "pre-repair" it, and NOT hear about its issues (perhaps continuously/relentlessly) from purchasers. Further, I do not care for the proposition of disingenuously reciting platitudes and blather/gobbledygook to people who deserve my complete candidness (particularly when I actually do know something about the cause of the problems they're experiencing).
- I hear my long-departed Dad's loud-@$$ voice in my head constantly, about "golden rule" sorts of issues. I'm just as tempted to make quick/easy money as anyone, but - well - "that voice" could make it difficult to sleep at night, and - when I have strayed from that voice, in my life (Who hasn't...??) that "voice" becomes VERY loud and VERY angry.
...and I've bought "cheap" stuff too: cheap-lawnmowers, cheap-drills, cheap-rakes, cheap-this, cheap-that. Every once in a while, "cheap" was also really good. More often, though, "just a little bit above cheap" (maybe even only "double the cost of cheap" - which was STILL only "HALF the cost of expensive) has pleased me a great deal.
===================================
With brass instrument valves (whether piston or rotary) there are a handful of requirements:
- reasonably airtight
- quick motion
- reliable motion
- (for most users/performers) quiet motion
All of these requirements depend heavily on manufacturing tolerances.
Regardless of where a piece of equipment is manufactured (and today, a tremendous percentage of all sorts of products are made in Asia), if design, tolerances, and materials are all superb, there is less likelihood of problems. "Fast" manufacturing doesn't necessarily equal "bad" manufacturing, if "fast" is ALSO nearly perfect...and there are some people who do nearly-perfect work who are also fast at doing it (simply because they do JUST what is absolutely required - no more, and no less...as either "more" or "less" could easily destroy that which they are fabricating).
Specifically with brass instrument valves, when these standards are kept consistently high, this eliminates most problems - other than damage and contaminants (lime, dirt, foreign substances, improper lubricants/cleansers, etc.)
Observation tells me a lot of money has changed hands via the sales of low-build-tolerances sub-$2XXX tubas (replicas of $9XXX instruments), and even some of the same build quality in the (replicas of $16XXX instruments) over-$5XXX price range.
Having agreed to do work on quite a few of these instruments sold to people who live within two or three hours of my shop (bought - typically - from online outlets), I see (and funny to use this word) "consistent" epic slide alignment issues, inside-outside slide tolerance issues (as wildly misaligned slides probably cannot be inserted nor extracted unless the individual pairs of tubes' fit is very loose), and (much more impacting than slide tolerance issues) valve tolerance issues.
I remember (two or three decades ago) when both the piston and rotor tolerances were "consistently" unacceptable from certain identifiable outlets/overseas manufacturers. As they are simple cylinders, the pistons seem to improved more (with the low-end Asia-made instruments) though the quality of the porting (brass tubes which pass through the hollow piston bodies) often continues to pull hard at my eyebrow.
The low-end Asia-made instruments' rotary valves continue to cause headaches and - via sympathy for those who've purchased these instruments - cause me to tend to undercharge for the amount of time spent to attempt to make them run reliably (as there really is no proper "repair" other than "replace" - with something such as a complete set of Meinlschmidt rotor assemblies...for an "upgrade" cost roughly equivalent to the "new" prices of these complete instruments, but - even were that done, the epic tuning slide issues...loose-fitting tubes and wildly-off alignment...would continue to exist, so... )
Again, poor tolerances go hand-in-hand with inconsistent results, with some consumers encountering little-to-no problems, and others encountering very "consistent" (again: an ironic word to find myself using) problems. When removable bearing rotor bearing plates are even only .0005" too tight, it becomes very difficult to micro-adjust both their "tilt" and their in/out position - in relation to the rotor body, because - well - it's difficult to "micro-adjust" something when (ok...) "beating the crap out of it" is what is required to cause it to barely budge.
Another issue with hurriedly-manufactured rotary valve assemblies is "on center" issues. When lathes are worn, not the best, and/or their bearing are not maintained, machining "slop" becomes an issue, and things that need to be perfectly circular and perfectly symmetrical end up not being so. When that is the case, the only way for a rotor to turn in its casing is loose lateral (left/right) bearings fit. Since valve stems fitting loosely is not an option (too immediately-apparent to consumers) the other option is to make the center holes in the removable "back" bearing plates oversize...thus rendering those back bearings as only "for show" and not actually functioning as bearings. When all this is the situation, the valve stem becomes the only real bearing and (yikes!) the interior large surfaces of the valve casing itself become the defacto other "bearing". This being the case, even a sub-.001" wobble in a rotor valve stem quickly becomes a +.001" or even +.0015" or (whoa!) +.002" wobble down at the bottom end of the rotor body (against its casing wall) and - guess what...?? - that inconsistent improper friction between the rotor body and the casing wall = intermittent/inconsistent hanging rotors, with hapless consumers regularly contacting an (eye-squinting, yet sympathetic) bloke.
Further (as there is a great deal of torque applied to rotor valve stems) that upper bearing tends to wear more quickly, whereas the bottom (removable) bearing wears very slowly. I have some old "junk" Miraphone (several decades of school use) rotors which date back to the 1960's, and their lower-bearing wobble is still-to-this-day only slight, whereas new hurriedly-manufactured-in-Asia rotors bearings often offer so much wobble as to allow the edges of the bearing plates (when tilted this-way-and-that with fingers) to touch the rotor bodies themselves...so yes: 50-year-old school-worn Miraphone rotors are often still completely reliable, whereas new hurriedly-manufactured rotors are often completely unreliable.
When I try to help someone with these issues, I simply cannot be getting on my lathe, manufacturing them a new set of removable bearings, and charging them (??) $500 - $800, as [1] such a repair is out-of-proportion with the new acquisition cost of the complete instrument, and [2] "perfect"/tight bearings would not allow these rotors to rotate (as -again - they are so often built "off-center")...so I do some "hail-Mary" lapping, cleaning, inspecting of surfaces for "where do these parts tend to inappropriately rub against each other the most", etc. ie. "b.s." ...
...and BECAUSE the only financially-appropriate remedy is "b.s.", (again) I tend to undercharge for my time, because I feel somewhat guilty charging for short-term remedies which are not actually repairs...
...so the wide distribution of this equipment tends to be lose-lose (lose for the consumer, and lose for the repair-guy), with the only winners being the importers/retailers of these items.
- The consumer ends up with shiny/unreliable equipment with "potential" (ie. "if only this instrument had valves and slides which worked", etc...)
- The repair-guy ends up undercharging out of sympathy, and is made to look bad because they are unable to completely remedy problems which are not able to be properly remedied (again, without swapping out complete valvesets).
OK...yes: I sell some Asian products...but not all Eastern Hemisphere instrument manufacturing is equal (just as all Western Hemisphere manufacturing is not equal). I feel quite certain that - buying through another company that actually purchases the instruments from the factory - I'm paying a fairly heavy wholesale mark-up over "dock" pricing, but - that having been said - I'm only selling instruments that (based on experience) I can drop-ship to customers - if necessary - straight from the warehouse (without me having to unpack and "check" them), and - 99 times out of 100 - they are issue-free - with pistons/casings, rotors/casings, inside-outside slide tube fit, and slide alignment that all closely resembles (under deep scrutiny) central European manufacturing standards.
I don't believe (??) that I'm an "equipment snob". Rather, I'm a few other things:
- I'm LAZY, because I just want to SELL a new instrument, NOT attempt to "pre-repair" it, and NOT hear about its issues (perhaps continuously/relentlessly) from purchasers. Further, I do not care for the proposition of disingenuously reciting platitudes and blather/gobbledygook to people who deserve my complete candidness (particularly when I actually do know something about the cause of the problems they're experiencing).
- I hear my long-departed Dad's loud-@$$ voice in my head constantly, about "golden rule" sorts of issues. I'm just as tempted to make quick/easy money as anyone, but - well - "that voice" could make it difficult to sleep at night, and - when I have strayed from that voice, in my life (Who hasn't...??) that "voice" becomes VERY loud and VERY angry.
...and I've bought "cheap" stuff too: cheap-lawnmowers, cheap-drills, cheap-rakes, cheap-this, cheap-that. Every once in a while, "cheap" was also really good. More often, though, "just a little bit above cheap" (maybe even only "double the cost of cheap" - which was STILL only "HALF the cost of expensive) has pleased me a great deal.