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Right now I am getting by with a Bernzomatic propane torch with an adjustable head. I can get the flame fairly low, but not small/concentrated enough for my liking. I am heating up the rest of my work too much.

What does your torch setup look like? I'd prefer something a bit smaller. Is one of those little butane torches (creme brulee, etc.) too wimpy for solder work?

I use one of the little ones on my bench in my laundry room, but outside where I do most of my real soldering I use a B tank of acetylene and a Uniweld regulator and torch handle with tips from 1mm up to 6mm, with 99% of my work using the 2mm tip. I use a 10-foot hose. Since most of my work is to my own tubas I will align and brace stuff using wood blocks and shims (or the occasional water bottle, heh, heh…) and then solder around the horn to prevent having to move it and re-shim things. Being able to walk all the way around the tuba and get to it from many angles allows me to do a LOT of reassembly work without moving the tuba at all.

I use what is called an air-acetylene torch, which uses one tank and a simple regulator. It uses vents in the handle to mix the gas with outside air. To braze it is much less expensive (in gas usage) and efficient (because it is much hotter) to use an oxy-acetylene torch, which uses a tank of acetylene and a tank of oxygen. The regulator is more complex and the torch handle has two knobs so you can tune the flame to what you like to use. Instead of air (mostly inert nitrogen), it injects very flammable O2 into the stream with your acetylene.

This is my main torch. The part number is visible on the package. The best place to find these is through Grainger.


This is the last tip kit I bought. It ought to last me until I die.


This is my *other* torch. It is more expensive and not as well made, but can be found on Amazon pretty easily.


I use a B tank for my torch. Compare with the garden variety RV propane tank for size. The B tank is about the size of a large fire extinguisher and very heavy. Acetylene is dangerous to use and the tank needs to be strapped to something to keep it from falling over. The acetylene is in a mixture with acetone, and if the tank falls over you have to set it upright and wait for a while (at least equal to the time it spent on its side) to use it and not have a jet of burning acetone spurt out. Nasty stuff for the uninitiated, but a very good and inexpensive gas if you are trained to use it. I would not recommend using acetylene at home as most homeowner policies do not cover fire damage if an acetylene tank was present. I use it because I am a stubborn idiot. But I think I am going to change over to the RV propane tanks for general use, and to a Smith Little Torch oxy-acetylene system with the very small bottles in the carrier rack. That can be stored indoors and is for very small silver brazing work.

Wade, you are so incredibly helpful and thorough. Thank you!

Blake

arpthark wrote: ↑Thu Sep 29, 2022 8:14 am Wade, you are so incredibly helpful and thorough. Thank you!

Blake

That he is!

For me (a total home repair hack), I get by with a Bernzomatic propane torch like you have and a refillable, hand-held Butane torch from the hardware store. I've done entire tear downs and builds with those.

I would love to get a nicer setup like Wade describes, but I don't have the money. Someday...

Wade, what kind of torch can you hook up to a propane tank? Would it be usable for everyday soldering as well as brazing? You've piqued my interest...

https://www.amazon.com/Goss-KP-105-Prop ... B00D2ZVJD2

Something like this, but this one is currently unavailable.

This is informative. Their air-propane gear starts on page 11…

https://irp.cdn-website.com/d5fc76f7/fi ... 285%29.pdf

I use cheap/crappy torch heads..and do some pretty tricky stuff.

Don't mistake this for snootiness or bragging (I'm certainly not bragging about my soldering torch), but "having a touch" (at least, in my experience) is considerably more important than having a nice torch.

Mrs. bloke is good at soldering, but - when I need her to help me with something tricky - I do NOT allow her to hold the torch, OR - if I do have her holding the torch - I'm somehow able to move the item being heated.

At the risk of typing too much and going off the deep end, here...

It's quite advantageous to quickly be able to get something to the ideal temperature, innately know that it's there, take care of business, and back away...maybe (??) sorta like slurs: where it works out really well for the mouth shape, mouth tension, and air to go immediately where they need to go - rather than slowly getting sorta close and then oscillating on either side of "just right". ...eh?

I use this

https://www.harborfreight.com/propane-t ... 91899.html

And then a small little butane torch. This combo gets the job done for me.

It cuts down on the weeds too.

York-aholic wrote: ↑Fri Sep 30, 2022 12:35 pm

So THAT'S why I keep burning lacquer!

That’s what I use for big things. You can actually get a very nice tight flame from that cheap kit. You have way more control of the flam than just a benzomatic head.

Air propane is overkill. It’s great for fabrication, but I’ve only just scratched the surface of that.

After addressing a mushed-in place under it, I just soldered a keel back on a 186, and - after removing a torn-up one and smoothing out the dent under it - I just soldered an old good-condition salvaged lyre holder onto the same instrument’s bell (replacing the trashed one).
I use a button-starting Bernzomatic propane torch that is designed to go all the way from down really low to brazing temperature.
It’s certainly nothing special.

I didn’t burn any lacquer. Both solder joints look nice… and no hoses as encumbrances.
Were I’m not satisfied with my soldering, I promise you I would get something else.

This is not “ i’m so amazing I can use anything”, but rather “this cheap thing works well for me”.

Jim Williams wrote: ↑Fri Oct 14, 2022 2:22 pm

Rotary King CC