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Here’s more of the $400 Conn 20J. The band was finally getting to knock some rust off after COVID. One player was missing. Not perfect, but it was fun.

Low F is super solid on that tuba, Bill. Nice stuff!

the elephant wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 6:20 am Low F is super solid on that tuba, Bill. Nice stuff!

Yeah, man! Not stuffy down there whatsoever. She’s fun to play, and that low range hammer is fun to swing.

Sounds great, Bill! I'd love to have one of these to mess around on.

One of the most resonant-sounding, "fundamental bass" tones I have heard on tuba came from some kid from Eastern Kentucky (poor coal counties) playing the snot out of a 20J at a high school honor band in Richmond, KY. Arnald Gabriel conducted that one and was phenomenal. But I still remember the nice, round sound that kid got out of that 20J. You sound great on yours!

1+3 for F right below the staff or are you able to lip it? Are the slots fairly wide on these tubas?

Thanks!
Blake

I see a tuning bit, too. Excellent. I did not play these horns as a kid, so I never knew about the pamphlet that came in the case that explains that the use of one tuning bit was part of the design and that F was supposed to be played 13. Very helpful stuff to know. (Learned from you guys back in the old "pre-woke TN" days…)

The low F is meant to be played 1 plus 3, it might be fractionally sharp be there are always bigger things to worry about and that’s one limitation of three valve instruments. Lovely bass lines and sound, a great support for the group. The way that Doc played that 20J makes me think that a simple three valve BBb is all that most of us amateurs need … ??

https://norlanbewley.com/bewleymusic/tu ... b-tuba-nc/

I’m not familiar with tuning bits - we just don’t see them here in the UK - where might I find out more about them.

A 20J In good shape is an excellent beast indeed, and they are marvelously resonant. After owning a 24J, I think I'd rather have a 20J because the false tones are better, and they're 3 pounds lighter.

A lot of the problem with the way some 20J's play has to do with dents in the leadpipe and the valve knuckles and tubing; it's not ususual for leadpipes to simply have to be replaced. Take care of those, fix any leaks, and you have a good instrument even if the bows and bell are a bit beaten up. If I wasn't so old and puny (and getting punier), I'd probably buy a 20J or 21J again for concert band work. Making a sound you can feel throughout the room without a lot of air is a satisfying feeling.

There is only one real problem I have with the 20J other than the weight: the valves tend to bounce during technical passages. I've never played one where it didn't happen.

Oh, you're one of those guys who sounds great on everything

arpthark wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 8:44 am
1+3 for F right below the staff or are you able to lip it? Are the slots fairly wide on these tubas?

The F is close enough for open. My previous 20J, however, absolutely required 1&3. The slots aren’t too wide, but there’s room to bend pitch when necessary.

[quote="2nd tenor" post_id=53109 time=1666297200
https://norlanbewley.com/bewleymusic/tu ... b-tuba-nc/

I’m not familiar with tuning bits - we just don’t see them here in the UK - where might I find out more about them.
[/quote]

A sousaphone bit is what I use. If it is different from an original tuning bit (if there is a difference at all), it is certainly negligible. Most use a sousaphone bit.

I believe the bits are/were one and the same; there was only ever the single design.

But I may be wrong in that assumption.

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 3:03 pm Oh, you're one of those guys who sounds great on everything

I don’t know about that. I do try to play horns that make the job easy. Less work = a chance to sound better. And I’ll take all the help I can get!

Doc wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 10:04 pm

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 3:03 pm Oh, you're one of those guys who sounds great on everything

I don’t know about that. I do try to play horns that make the job easy. Less work = a chance to sound better. And I’ll take all the help I can get!

FWIW, the 20J that I had for a little while was VERY easy to play, holy cow, what a fun tuba. Reminded me (obviously) of playing Sousaphone in college, particularly a short-action-valve Conn naked lady model from a long time ago. Fun, easy to play, and only positive feedback from others.

BTW, I know you used to own a Kanstul 90 CC as well ... finally got a chance to try one recently, and it blew me away how easy it was to play. WOW. I wanted MORE sound from it but dang that was a nice tuba.

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 11:39 pm

Doc wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 10:04 pm

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 3:03 pm Oh, you're one of those guys who sounds great on everything

I don’t know about that. I do try to play horns that make the job easy. Less work = a chance to sound better. And I’ll take all the help I can get!

FWIW, the 20J that I had for a little while was VERY easy to play, holy cow, what a fun tuba. Reminded me (obviously) of playing Sousaphone in college, particularly a short-action-valve Conn naked lady model from a long time ago. Fun, easy to play, and only positive feedback from others.

BTW, I know you used to own a Kanstul 90 CC as well ... finally got a chance to try one recently, and it blew me away how easy it was to play. WOW. I wanted MORE sound from it but dang that was a nice tuba.

I wish I had mine. Incredible sound and a freaking breeze to play. I should have figured out some sort of first valve slide trigger that would allow me to keep my left arm below parallel. Or I could have let the doctor fix whatever in the hell is wrong with my left shoulder.