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When I alter slides on my tubas, I prefer AVOIDING dealing with the big compressor and all that jazz.

Forever, I've been using the Nikolas rattle-can stuff.

I'm going to try the big-box off-the-shelf stuff for a while.

It doesn't go on as smooth/pretty (nearly so - particularly if only slides), but it seems to be more viscous, and - possibly, then - a bit more durable.
...It's also cheaper, but that's not the primary motivation.

Only time will tell, re: durability.
In the meantime, I'll save a few bucks.
I'm going to use it on customer touch-ups as well.
Something I don't like about the Nikolas rattle-can (in addition to so-so durability) is the fact that it sort of has a "rainbow/prismatic" look within its sheen, quite often.

(A day or two ago, I used the big-box stuff to hit my Miraphone 98/FB main slide, after I refinished it.
I'll have more stuff to do on this instrument alone:
- #3 slide reconfig.
- lower #4 slide{s} water key moves - brazing the o.e.m. inconveniently-located drain holes shut - f'ing up the factory lacquer but good, just as with the main slide)

Post a pic of the label?

I'm thinking it's just this...

bloke wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 6:22 pm I'm thinking it's just this...

I used that same can on a spectacular piece of walnut burl recently and it turned out very nicely.

It was the lid on a box to hold cards on which people could write down memories for a recently deceased friend so that his one year old will be able to get to know a bit about his dad.

Interesting stuff. Technical specs say the resin is acrylic, so not epoxy and not traditional nitrocellulose. Solvents are the typical witch’s brew of toxic stuff, acetone, MEK, toluene. Claims are dry to touch after 20 minutes, completely dry in 30, re-coat at any time. The things I would wonder about are 1. Would it stick to the lacquer that is already on the horn? 2. Would multiple coats melt into each other, like nitro? 3. If used for touch up, would it stick out due to differing optical properties? Looking forward to your evaluation, Joe.

I hit that slide with three pretty good coats -one right smack after the other, but I'm pretty good at spraying and laying down a whole bunch of material without it running, because I've done it for so long. I also chased it with the torch, so it wouldn't have to wait for it to dry. As far as toxicity is concerned, I don't believe I would spray nitrocellulose lacquer on my scrambled eggs. (Our government has made paint stripper so much "safer" now, that it's absolutely useless.)
Yes I'm aware that the formulation of this "lacquer" is completely different, but it goes on nicer (again: not quite as nice as Nikolas) than that typical "acrylic clear" stuff that they sell more commonly in retail store paint departments.
I've also tried high-grade aerosol clear coats that are sold to go on top of high-grade aerosol touch up paints for cars, and I think the stuff discussed in this topic is also prettier looking than that stuff as well.
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That box is beautiful, amazingly crafted, and a wonderful gift, but we all know that Jason is as talented as he is kind.

bloke wrote: ↑Thu Dec 15, 2022 8:29 am but we all know that Jason is as talented as he is kind.

+1

(Aside from his apparent addiction to Yorkahol.)