parts availability, as a consideration for purchasing a brand/maker

[bloke]

I don't see any manufacturers - in particular - being particularly amazing regarding the supplying of replacement/repair parts, these days.

The emphasis has always been on producing complete products (obviously), and - when manpower, quality of manpower, mandated shutdowns, shipping jam-ups, cost, or all of these are problems, something is going to have to give.

To comment on experiences with specific/individual manufacturers' supplying of parts (and pricing) might be actionable, and I don't care for "action".

The only opinion that I might offer to band directors is that "buying that most expensive brand, because they've never let me down", might - henceforth - only end up being the most expensive, and without any other real advantages (and if all educators continue to buy the most expensive "whatevers" to supply their classrooms, something will eventually give - ie. state/county/town/school district BUDGET CUTS), because homeowners and renters are no longer taking property tax and state income increases with shoulder shrugs.

Of course, there's also an obvious shortage of people (ie. those who can do excellent/fast/non-ruinous work) to repair damage and to install replacement parts properly...but (well...) that's sort-of been the case for quite a while. Further (and I tend to get into defensive discussions when I bring this up), over the decades I've seen the quantity and intensity of damage (of institutionally-owned instruments) rise geometrically. I'm not going to post any of my beliefs - here - as to the "whys" of this.

All I'm really trying to say here is that "choosing one make over another because I can get parts for them" isn't a particularly defensible reason, anymore. Online easy-to-read and easy-to-order parts are ONE set of things, but those parts actually being manufactured and delivered are ANOTHER set of things.

[JRaymo]

I started thinking about a set of maw valves for my Willson. Martin does not have a drop in set made for this tuba and so my only option is to buy a new set of pistons from Willson and then Martin will convert my old original set into maw valves.

I’ve emailed Getzen but it really seems since DEG went away the Willson stuff here in the US is not even really advertised much. I don’t know what a set would cost or where to even look.


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[BuddyRogersMusic]

I've communicated with Willi Kurath directly and he's always answered. For which model are you seeking pistons?

You may be aware of this but I'll point it out anyway; if your horn has worn pistons and casings, simply replacing the pistons won't solve the problem. The casings need to be honed and oversized pistons then honed to fit. Even if the original pistons are stripped, honed, and re-plated, they will still need to be fit to the casings.

And to Joe's point, certain manufacturers are less than helpful to get us parts that we've ordered. Others bend over backwards to ensure we have what we need to properly service a customer's instrument. I do like to have OEM parts on hand but will often have to scramble to make something work, especially the off-brand models that are prevalent these days.

[JRaymo]

I've communicated with Willi Kurath directly and he's always answered. For which model are you seeking pistons?

You may be aware of this but I'll point it out anyway; if your horn has worn pistons and casings, simply replacing the pistons won't solve the problem. The casings need to be honed and oversized pistons then honed to fit. Even if the original pistons are stripped, honed, and re-plated, they will still need to be fit to the casings.

And to Joe's point, certain manufacturers are less than helpful to get us parts that we've ordered. Others bend over backwards to ensure we have what we need to properly service a customer's instrument. I do like to have OEM parts on hand but will often have to scramble to make something work, especially the off-brand models that are prevalent these days.

My reason for buying piston valves for it are to have a set of MAW valves made. There are no issues with the valves in it. Martin does not have a drop in valve for a Willson Eb and I am interested in his valves but I also want to keep a stock set just in case I prefer those.


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[BuddyRogersMusic]

Got it! Thanks for the clarification. Willi usually answers fairly quickly. His contact info can be found on Willson's website.

[bloke]

I've had some domestic and not particularly uncommon parts on order for about a half a year. My recent domestic parts order was not acknowledged after I sent it in.

[JRaymo]

Got it! Thanks for the clarification. Willi usually answers fairly quickly. His contact info can be found on Willson's website.

Thanks,

I didn’t know who to even contact. Seems since DEG in longer the distributor there’s a lot less information out there. I don’t even know who took it over. I assumed Getzen but no mention of Willson anything on the web site. This is a project that may not happen anyway but I was trying to get some number and decide if it’s worth doing.


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[bort2.0]

I had Martin un-rotax my rotary valves on my 3050rz, it was an excellent positive change. But it didn't solve the issue of ergonomics, where the entire valve block felt about 2 inches too high, and the inhuman 5th valve placement. Such a good tuba otherwise!

Parts ... I only see this problem getting worse, I'm guessing at least one or two more closures by 2030.

[JRaymo]

I’m planning on him doing that mod on my 5th valve. I don’t know how much improvement there will be since it’s primarily a piston tuba with the 5th used a lot less but an improvement is still something. I’m actually really happy with the ergonomics of my Eb and I didn’t mind my CC either. I did play a rotor CC and I totally understand when you mean about that.

My Eb plays really well as is. I was just entertaining the idea of it. I have not idea what it would cost to buy new valves. I would not hesitate to buy a set of maw valves for it if they already had compatible ones in production.


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[bloke]

I wouldn't mess with the valves, but it's completely your call.
If you do anything (just as I advised Brett, but he chose to have someone else do it - rather than doing it himself) you could cut the extra chunks of metal (which create the faux porting) out of the rotor, thus increasing the bore size through the rotor...but you don't need someone else to do that. Anyone who can rebuild a huge jet engine off an airliner can cut metal out of two sides of a rotor body and smooth down the edges with a file and various grits of sandpaper. Again...I don't buy into the "air flow" thing, but reducing the rotor mass could end up lightening the touch of your rotor lever somewhat.

I swapped some repair work for a used set (fit King) of those special piston valves, because experience taught me that they are just slightly oversized.

My Holton B-flat has a 1990's King valveset, the oem valves were "ok", but just very slightly worn. I had to "lap" those Meinlschmidt MAW valves into the casings, which offered a like-new fit without sending the valveset off to Dan for a $XXXX job.

[JRaymo]

I wouldn't mess with the valves, but it's completely your call.
If you do anything (just as I advised Brett, but he chose to have someone else do it - rather than doing it himself) you could cut the extra chunks of metal (which create the faux porting) out of the rotor, thus increasing the bore size through the rotor...but you don't need someone else to do that. Anyone who can rebuild a huge jet engine off an airliner can cut metal out of two sides of a rotor body and smooth down the edges with a file and various grits of sandpaper. Again...I don't buy into the "air flow" thing, but reducing the rotor mass could end up lightening the touch of your rotor lever somewhat.

I swapped some repair work for a used set (fit King) of those special piston valves, because experience taught me that they are just slightly oversized.

My Holton B-flat has a 1990's King valveset, the oem valves were "ok", but just very slightly worn. I had to "lap" those Meinlschmidt MAW valves into the casings, which offered a like-new fit without sending the valveset off to Dan for a $XXXX job.

I appreciate the advice,

I really have nothing to complain about this tuba and anything I would complain about would likely only be fixed by me playing it more.


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[bort2.0]

At the time, my younger kid was about 6 months old... So my two kids had a cumulative age of less than 3 years. I had no patience, no time, and no confidence that I'd do it correctly myself, and was glad that Martin would do it for me.

Willi Kurath provided me with a number of parts orders over a few years. Sometimes he wrote back the same day. Sometimes it was weeks later. Seeing as how they aren't in the business of selling parts, I was happy with whatever I got, and happy that I could order directly, instead of through a dealer like with Miraphone.

Lots of parts and stuff available from Jurgen Voigt as well, but also not direct to consumer.

If I were able to afford a Miraphone again, the parts availability is definitely a plus. Although both the instruments and the parts are white expensive these days. My best bet seems to be to buy old and fix it up.

[bloke]

I'm watching the mail - as I type this - for my next shipment of Miraphone parts.

Even when Christian is out of the office (as he currently is), he (or someone) arranges for my parts orders to be rounded up and promptly shipped.

The fun thing about owning a Miraphone instrument is that (re: parts availability) it can easily be changed to my liking...and - Lord knows - I will have carried out a TON of changes with this model 98...not that it was a bad tuba at all, but - rather - that I have my own ideas about how things should be set up, as well as (overboard...??) some pretty strong opinions about the importance of spot-on tuning.

[JRaymo]

I'm watching the mail - as I type this - for my next shipment of Miraphone parts.

Even when Christian is out of the office (as he currently is), he (or someone) arranges for my parts orders to be rounded up and promptly shipped.

The fun thing about owning a Miraphone instrument is that (re: parts availability) it can easily be changed to my liking...and - Lord knows - I will have carried out a TON of changes with this model 98...not that it was a bad tuba at all, but - rather - that I have my own ideas about how things should be set up, as well as (overboard...??) some pretty strong opinions about the importance of spot-on tuning.

With my age and since I’ve played my current tuba a long time I doubt I would ever switch to something else but if I had to say due to arthritis or something like that switch to rotor valves I would probably switch to the Norwegian star. I’ve not played one but have heard nothing but good things who have and Mr Baadsvik sounds amazing on his star light.


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[JRaymo]

At the time, my younger kid was about 6 months old... So my two kids had a cumulative age of less than 3 years. I had no patience, no time, and no confidence that I'd do it correctly myself, and was glad that Martin would do it for me.

Willi Kurath provided me with a number of parts orders over a few years. Sometimes he wrote back the same day. Sometimes it was weeks later. Seeing as how they aren't in the business of selling parts, I was happy with whatever I got, and happy that I could order directly, instead of through a dealer like with Miraphone.

Lots of parts and stuff available from Jurgen Voigt as well, but also not direct to consumer.

If I were able to afford a Miraphone again, the parts availability is definitely a plus. Although both the instruments and the parts are white expensive these days. My best bet seems to be to buy old and fix it up.

There’s a Willson 3100 fixer upper on eBay. Same seller as the last one. I seem to remember a long time ago some bloke mentioned the BBb 3100 to be superior to the 3050. Last I checked it was under $3000. I have too many non musical projects to spend my $$$ on otherwise I’d be after it myself.


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