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Why when trying to take apart a Tuning slide or anything else that involves a ferrule, does the ferrule always remain with the opposite pipe I want it to?

Like... 100% of the time!

Some ferrules are just as*h***s

LeMark wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 7:48 am Why when trying to take apart a Tuning slide or anything else that involves a ferrule, does the ferrule always remain with the opposite pipe I want it to?

Like... 100% of the time!

Some ferrules are just as*h***s

I can't remember which, but either Ferree's or Allied has some "hillbilly" (but they work) "slide pliers" in two sizes.

The larger ones are handy for tubas, and (if used gingerly) no-to-light scarring occurs.

They can be used - not only to beat against the edge of the ferrule with a mallet, but - also to carefully grasp and twist.

A set of tuba-size slide tubing expanders is handy to HOLD (not expand) the tube while coaxing the ferrule off.

Thanks Joe!

I just found out yesterday a local friend has a badger account

Sounds like I need to stop trying to use my accumulated tools that I work on cars with and get some real tools.

They take a medium-large pair of fairly beefy pliers - made of pretty good steel, hold them closed, and ream a large tapered hole - split between the two halves.

This creates a narrow (nearly sharp, but not quite that thin) edge on one side.

There are some with a smaller reamed tapered opening that are more suited to trumpets and horns.

The thin edge is mostly designed to put behind the ferrule of a stuck slide and beat it out, but it's also pretty good for grasping somewhat stubborn ferrules (when heated enough to melt lead solder) and twist them off (again: hopefully, without marking them up very much).

In the past, they used smaller pliers - which fit into tighter places, but what remained of each side was a bit too delicate, and beating on them would break them.

thanks. wow those are pricey!

...which is why I often sigh when peeps message me about fixin' stuff in their garage or basement...

...I know they don't have a thingamajig, and won't be buying one.

I think I can get by with my current project by making ferrules out of outer tubing, but I honestly don't understand WHY it's so difficult.

I swear some ferrules attached to inner slides and ferrules feel like they are silver soldered on, but the solder on the opposite end of the ferrule will melt with just a few seconds of heat

Miraphone is really bad about that, but even this old York I'm messing with is giving me problems

Heat control. Only heat the side you'd like to come apart. You can also put a wet rag on the side you don't want to come apart.

UncleBeer wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 6:39 pm Heat control. Only heat the side you'd like to come apart. You can also put a wet rag on the side you don't want to come apart.

You are absolutely right, but there are times that one side simply fits tighter than the other side, and - with some of the more consistent manufacturers - the slide tubes' outer diameters are just enough larger than the outer diameter of slide bows that bows come out of ferrules more easily, plus - think about it - slide bows have something to actually grab on (with some heat protective gloves) whereby you can wiggle them.

UncleBeer wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 6:39 pm Heat control. Only heat the side you'd like to come apart. You can also put a wet rag on the side you don't want to come apart.

I applied the torch to the tube I wanted free of the ferrule, but I didn't try the cold rag. Thanks

LeMark wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 7:38 pm

UncleBeer wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 6:39 pm Heat control. Only heat the side you'd like to come apart. You can also put a wet rag on the side you don't want to come apart.

I applied the torch to the tube I wanted free of the ferrule, but I didn't try the cold rag. Thanks

With slide pliers and a Mrs. bloke, you can heat the slide side of the ferrule while a Mrs. bloke taps on the slide pliers from that side.