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Does anyone have experience with using Mead Springs in their tuba? I'm looking for a way to quiet down my valves, and the Mead Springs seems to be an option.

Thanks!

I use the MeadSpring Euphonium springs in my Besson 983 Eb. He has tuba springs that work well in BBb/CC tubas. Smaller Eb/F's I'd recommend using euphonium springs.

hrender wrote: ↑Thu Oct 01, 2020 10:20 am Does anyone have experience with using Mead Springs in their tuba? I'm looking for a way to quiet down my valves, and the Mead Springs seems to be an option.

Thanks!

Hal they are super stiff compared to the factory springs. Designed that way for quick return. If that's what you're looking for then they might work. I didn't care for them and just went with Yamahas and you barely have to press the valve down it's light as a feather.

I have some Yamaha springs, but they’re a little softer than I like and didn’t quiet things down as much as I had hoped. I like the barrel profile of the Meads which is the main reason I got interested in them. I heard about the stiffness, so I might try the Euph/Bass-tuba springs first. Thanks again.

There are a lot of springs out there for tuba. Just go to a well stocked shop or repairman and see what works.

Noise is a different matter, unless the springs are so small they move around too much.

I once owned a Besson Euphonium and the previous owner (or Besson themselves) had done a lot to reduce noise; cork on the bottom cap, cork lining around the bottom of the valve (just basically a thin strip of cork rolled around the spring). It worked great and didn't restrict the valve movement (because it was done to avoid that).

Good luck

I took a chance and bought MeadSprings CC/BBb for my JP377 comp Eb because the original springs were so stiff. They're excellent (coated, no bounce, quiet, quick return) but the stiffness feels exactly the same as the originals. I guess I'll try Yamaha next . . .

GC wrote: ↑Fri Oct 02, 2020 3:13 pm I took a chance and bought MeadSprings CC/BBb for my JP377 comp Eb because the original springs were so stiff. They're excellent (coated, no bounce, quiet, quick return) but the stiffness feels exactly the same as the originals. I guess I'll try Yamaha next . . .

The Yamaha's are light as a feather with quick return, you could almost blow air on them to push them down they are so lite. YMMV and if you like stiff springs then you may not like them.

I mess with putting a bunch of springs in a bunch of bottom-sprung instruments.

Springs...
that:
- aren't bent
- with 90-degree ends
- which are centered
- which fit within the provided bottom cap indentions (if applicable)
- which do not fit too tightly in the bottom insets of piston bodies

...are QUIET springs.

Those rubber things (designed to insert in bottom caps to receive the bottoms of springs) are humbug.
Additionally (though I like the tension of both the tuba and euphonium ones - and use them on my piston instruments, when they fit), the plastic coating on the ends of Yamaha springs is humbug.

I use the Euph ones in my EEb Willson - they work for me and are quite quiet with a good response. Would recommend.

Any luck supergluing the spring to the bottom valve cover??

Three Valves wrote: ↑Mon Oct 05, 2020 8:46 am Any luck supergluing the spring to the bottom valve cover??

I generally don't remove my pistons when oiling them...at least, not on this instrument...so the springs stay in place.

bloke wrote: ↑Mon Oct 05, 2020 11:52 am

Three Valves wrote: ↑Mon Oct 05, 2020 8:46 am Any luck supergluing the spring to the bottom valve cover??

I generally don't remove my pistons when oiling them...at least, not on this instrument...so the springs stay in place.

Is there a certain place you drill out the oil ports on the caps (as when drilling vent holes), or does it matter when it's on top? I can't think of how hole placement on the top cap would interfere with valve performance. Or have I not had enough coffee yet?

Those holes were located very precisely...

...not just in a straight line on the accessible side of the instrument, but JUST inside the casings, so that oil runs down the casings' walls.

bloke wrote: ↑Mon Oct 05, 2020 1:57 pm Those holes were located very precisely...

...not just in a straight line on the accessible side of the instrument, but JUST inside the casings, so that oil runs down the casings' walls.

Gotcha. I didn't think there would be any other kind of conflict.