TubaForum.net

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325987326028



Were these made by Cerveny? I forget. I often see them silver plated.

That one is a cerveny

Was Ziess the house brand of an importer? Anybody know who sold Ziesses?

Richard Morrow bought his from DeKalb Music Supply in Atlanta Georgia

BRS wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 2:55 pm The bell has had patches that are in very good shape.

...which have no effect on the value...
...but if you change it out to Dubro linkage, it should be worth about 800 bucks more.

BRS wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 9:33 pm

bloke wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 7:17 pm

BRS wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 2:55 pm The bell has had patches that are in very good shape.

...which have no effect on the value...
...but if you change it out to Dubro linkage, it should be worth about 800 bucks more.

…but only if you keep the the clock springs. The best of everything…

Must one keep them on the tuba? Or would just keeping them be sufficient?

What if i threw in a few extra clock springs from, ya know, actual clocks?

I like clocksprings. And I like Du-Bro linkages.



Actually, clocksprings are pretty neat if they are in even a reasonable state of repair. They are much longer (if stretched out) than a wire spring and therefore have a more linear feel. The way they are enclosed keeps dirt out of them for a long period (but not forever), and they are less subject to fatigue than wire springs (also not necessarily a "forever" statement, though they might well last forever if prevented from corroding).

But, of course, wire springs are dead easy to obtain and replace, whereas clocksprings require shopping around a bit. I suspect the springs used in tuba valves are easily replaceable--my go-to for watch and clock parts is CousinsUK, which has a whole page of mainsprings for alarm clocks that look as though they cover the relevant size range. The issue will be how the ends are shaped, but the ends are usually softened (or can be with a little careful torch work--just on the end) and can be reshaped.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/loose ... larm-clock

The mainsprings used in actual clocks are far more subject to fatigue, simply because they are wound until the spring stack binds up preventing further winding, and then allowed to run down until they are so loose they won't run the clock any more. Springs on tuba valves operate over a much narrower loading range.

About the only thing that will kill them is rust, so keeping them oiled is a good preventative. Just dribble in some 3in1 into where the shaft rotates in the plate (which varies). Capillary action will keep in there for a long time.

Rick "just replaced the wire springs on the old Giardinelli/B&S because an old one broke" Denney