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Can someone tell me what shank modern Cerveny tuba take? When I say modern, I am thinking of horns made in the 90's or later.

You could use American shank but the slightly larger Euro shank fits the newer Cerveny tubas better.

Matt Walters wrote: ↑Fri Oct 16, 2020 3:31 pm You could use American shank but the slightly larger Euro shank fits the newer Cerveny tubas better.

Thanks, Matt. And the tapers on American and Euro shanks are the same or very similar?...

I've seen Cerveny tubas from the 90's with receivers so large they swallowed an American mouthpiece, and Euro shanks wobbled. I've also seen American shank horns that were slightly smaller than an American shank. I have a late 70's horn over here with the smaller shank, and a late 80's horn over here with the larger one, but I teach for a school with horns bought at the same time in the late 90's, and some have the large, and some have the small. It's weird.

most of the modern Cerveny tubas are closer to American Shank as Matt said. Remember, with Cerveny, with leadpipe goes all the way to the end, and the receiver is just a casing that goes around it. There isn't a gap to consider like so many other brands out there. (for better or worse)

And because of what Mark said, some of these tubas have never had a proper taper set into the receiver/leadpipe with a reamer, hence the variation and the reports of mouthpieces being wobbly.

All three those I have tried and owned did fit an Euro shank.All of these where midt 80tys to midt 90tys.

Okay, new-to-me Cerveny arrived. The tuba seems to take American shank mouthpieces but with a wobble. Every mouthpiece I tried wobbles a bit. Hammond, Helleberg, G&W, R Tucci, and Shires (Pickett)... This is a Cerveny 683. What a cool little tuba!

Pics?

I plan to spend some "quality time" with her this weekend. A warm bubble bath followed by a shower on the deck. I will get some good photos.

Here is a preview... https://photos.app.goo.gl/f6PkghLwepbhQGncA

cool! I have the packer version of that. It's a great little horn. I looked for a long time for a pre-1990 version of the actual cerveny, but never found one. Bought the wessex version, had issues with the valves, sold it and got the packer.

Well, I gave the Cerveny a bath yesterday. Same album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/f6PkghLwepbhQGncA

I gave the valve cores a chem clean - they are spotless. The valve casings are better but not great. I tried vinegar and a toothbrush. I even tried a little brass cleaner on a rag. There are still some deposits in the casings. But I started with 2 valves pretty much sticking all the time. I had to play the #1 valve with two fingers - one on top and one underneath. And now I have 4 beautiful valves! Plays like a new horn!

That's definitely a large Euro shank (but not Kaiser shank). I had an Amati 481 BBb (taller bell model) with that same receiver shank size. Swallowed up American shank Bach's faster than the Cookie Monster.

greenbean wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:41 pmCerveny

' great-looking instrument !!!

I'm sure you know that the corners - at the bottoms of the casings, where the green-tinted lime was not dissolved - is a set of places where the rotors don't come in contact with the casings...so what you did is 100% of what was needed.

Years ago (before I had a vat large enough for a tuba) I had some rubber stoppers that fit the stem holes in the rotor casing, and some others that fit the outside slide tubes. (I would either leave the slides in the instruments, or use those slide tube-fitting stoppers, and I would leave the cork plate screws in the rotor casings.)

It wouldn't take that much vinegar to completely flood a tuba's valveset (and "cleaning vinegar is about 20% more acidic, as well as cheaper than food-grade").