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For those wondering if these are still readily available, they are. I purchased Martin's last "in stock" set of these that he had, but through our phone conversation it seems they are still available should you want or need them.

Mr. Wilk was very nice and knowledgeable in identifying the small vs big block valves, as well as a short discussion on modifying my Willson Rotax valves whenever I get that tuba back.

Finger buttons are included, base price is still the $1,250 on his website. Since I asked him to bling mine out a bit, my out the door price was slightly higher.

I don't have the tuba that these will be put in, yet, about 2 weeks or so.

**I did notice some imperfections with these pistons, however. I sent Mr. Wilk a quick email about it, waiting to hear back.**

I notice several little holes right outside the ports of these pistons. If that will affect the playing or function of these valves, hopefully I can get it fixed or replaced. If that will NOT affect anything, I don't really care. However, until I hear back, what say you, TFFJ? Should I be concerned?

Whatever the case, I'm not super concerned. If there is a problem, I'll get it dealt with.

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These slick finger buttons are why I paid a few more $$.

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Close-up of piston 3

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Close-up of piston 4, which has the most weirdness to it. Of particular concern, that big one to the right of the bottom port.

Update!

Martin is going to fill those imperfections. I’ll post again when I receive them back.

Talk about good service! I appreciate it.

Martin is an A1 stand-up guy. I'm going through an "adventure" with my MAW pistons for my Getzen, and I've learned a LOT. He makes things right.

kingrob76 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2024 9:08 pm I'm going through an "adventure" with my MAW pistons for my Getzen, and I've learned a LOT.

Do tell? (Or PM if you'd like). I thought about ordering these for my CB50, but hesitated.

UncleBeer wrote: ↑Mon Apr 15, 2024 3:36 pm

kingrob76 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2024 9:08 pm I'm going through an "adventure" with my MAW pistons for my Getzen, and I've learned a LOT.

Do tell? (Or PM if you'd like). I thought about ordering these for my CB50, but hesitated.

Yes please, I’m thinking seriously about a King 2341/Conn 56j set.

In a nutshell... the concept of "drop in" pistons for anything less than brand new instruments is flawed unless you can provide extremely precise measurements (most of us can't). Having them fitted properly involves getting the tolerances to around 1/10,000th of an inch. If you can provide Martin with these precise numbers, he can get MAW valves made to your specifications. Otherwise, I would suggest getting them made a tiny bit too large and having them fitted. Or even better, have the casings opened up ever so slightly and then fitted (my casings in my Getzen are not precisely uniformly round).

The tolerance of my MAW valves to my current casings in about 2/10,000ths and it does very poorly on a pressure test. Martin referred me to a guy local to me who I knew who does valve rebuilds - but keeps it a secret. He does about one job a month for people he either likes or were referred by someone he likes and wants to keep his name out of public view. I don't know the details of his plan but I know it involves plating them up a bit and fitting them. He has everything in house to do all the work and it should take 3-4 weeks once he finishes his current job.

MAW valves are stainless, but, nickel-plated pistons tend to work better in brass casings (as was demonstrated to me recently). Were I to order a new set I would ask from them to be nickel plated (extra cost) and just bring the horn to Martin for the work. The reason Lee has his new horns opened up and fitted is because that's the best way to get it exactly right. I was able to play my Getzen for a bit with the MAWs and I really, really liked it, felt it was a positive thing but I couldn't get smooth consistent action hence the adjustments.

I bartered some repairs for a used set of the ones that fit into King (and Getzen) valve casings, because in my experience those that fit into King valve casings are just a little bit too large, and the Holton 32-in tall B-flat 19-in bell tuba that I built has a 1990's King model 2341 valveset on it. The oem valves were really good, but lapping a set of slightly too tight pistons in defined that I had closer tolerances without having to go through a rebuild thing, and I certainly didn't want to remove that complicated valve section - that I highly adulterated - from that instrument after I built it. My experiences were that - fitting them into the casings - I had to be really careful because with that c shape in the middle of them, they flex quite a bit. I got the job done, but it required particular care. I don't know if this has anything to do with the thread, but that's all I know about those pistons that fit into King (and Getzen) casings.

oh... The used ones that I traded for were built remarkably well.
Is everyone talking about the ones that fit King, or the ones that fit the early Nirschl valvesets that were put on the German piston tubas? (The two are not the same.)

(I'm aware that some people believe that the Getzen valve blocks were made in Europe. I'm not arguing with anyone.)

The valves I purchased are for the early German small-block sets, but we’ve evolved to discussing the King/Getzen sets here. Totally fine by me.

I will say, I am glad I purchased these before I have the tuba, in the sense that I would’ve needed to send them back anyway, so getting them squared away now is better than later.

I got these pistons back from Mr. Wilk, who leak tested them and said they’re good to go, and they just have cosmetic defects. Good enough for me.

While I did not specifically order them for my new-to-me B&M, I can confirm that they do indeed fit. So, for those of you that have B&M, Marzan, Nirschl, or early Meinl Weston piston tubas, they will fit all of those.