TubaForum.net

c. 1906... model unknown (if they even had model designations at that time ??)

The BODY looks like a 1918 (ALSO "model unknown") 4-valve TOP-action tuba shown on the "Conn loyalist" website.

...stay tuned.
I'll have it here in a few days.

Valves are OK...
(over the phone) The overtones' tuning sounded OK.

This is not a "for sale" ad...not at this time. This is only a "check out this thing " post.

That's an orchestra grand

lost wrote: ↑Mon Jul 29, 2024 12:57 pm That's an orchestra grand

I'm told (by the person who retrieved it for me, and who knows what "6/4" is - as they have sat next to me (prostituting their art for filthy lucre - as was I) that it may be smaller than you suspect.
I've (recently) seen some EXTRA-large Conn E-flat tubas (not the "J" designates from the 1930's known as "monster") that probably are more in line with the size of this instrument...

...and I myself have repaired 36J ("orchestra grand") tubas, so - once its here - I'll be able to absolutely confirm.

...and my friend may well be incorrect, but I sorta doubt it.

Looks like it was “the catch of the day.” You netted “one thiiiiiis big…”

You've forced me to take mine out and get a similar shot

too lazy to dig it out, but here is a solid comparison. Nice find!

Well I know what 6/4 is, so I'll let you know what I'm told. As you see, it's not completely the same at least internally, but it could be externally. I've been fooled by pictures before. I believe we all have.

Is this the swap for the 22K, or another happy happenstance?

Finally: a qualified, certified technician who can cut that worn-out old instrument to the Professional Key of CC.

I even see a couple of upper slides to rig leather strings to.

arpthark wrote: ↑Mon Jul 29, 2024 5:41 pm Finally: a qualified, certified technician who can cut that worn-out old instrument to the Professional Key of CC.

I even see a couple of upper slides to rig leather strings to.

I'm going to put O-rings underneath the top caps first of all. After that, I'm going to put a leather belt around the bell. After that, I'm going to put some little round discs of rubber in the bottom caps so that the Springs don't make any noise. After that I'm going to install some hydraulic / adjustable valve guides made of spent plutonium coated in medical grade PVC.

And it might be a six quarter size after all.

@lost

Thanks for your knowledge and picture comparison. It's pretty obvious that it's the tuning after the valve section version of your instrument. I just got my friend to measure around the small end of the bell, and the circumference to diameter formula indicates it's 6 in across down there, so it has to be an old old Orchestra Grand model.

Possibly a Conn American style ‘Monster BBb’ 4 v Bass….”Mississippi edition”

Leather belt around the bell? You must be certified.

Now that my friend has it in his small studio - rather than in the former owner's large living room - he has texted me and told me

This thing has its own ZIP code!

That tuba looks like it would be great in band AND orchestra

It looks like it sounds great!

Stryk wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2024 9:58 am It looks like it sounds great!

My trombone friend is a pretty good tuba player, but - as is known - it typically takes a great deal of practice (particularly when playing 6/4 contrabass instruments) to produce a strong/solid "fortissimo" in the really low range (such as 4-ledger-lines F, etc.) He (very short videos, as well as over the phone) has demonstrated that for me - so far - two or three times.

I have NO idea whether I'll

- keep this for a bit
- keep it forever (You know: We freeway philharmonic feshunuls need BOTH a "home 6/4" and a "hall 6/4".)

- flip it really soon

...??

I'm personally accustomed to a fully-chromatic rig (3+1 comp, 5+1, 5+1+ #2 trigger, 6+2, etc...)
Flipping the #1 slide would not only define that existing #1 upper slide as more accessible, but would also open up a space for a rotor.
If I did a "period"-looking add-on, do y'all think it would affect the value adversely?

hive mind wrote:Adding a fifth valve ruins response.

If/since/as that's the case, I might just convert it to a 3-valve.
(I'm thinking that - were I to scrounge around here - I probably actually have some of these matching old-old-OLD Conn brace socket flanges.)
I'm thinking that anything done really well (that doesn't look like some patched-on crap, and that promotes playability) would add to value.

(insert shoulders-shrug here)

Relevant:

viewtopic.php?p=94084#p94084

It's fascinating to look at all the configuration variations that occurred before (apparently?) Conn models were standardized and given model nomenclature.

I'm changing the subject a little bit, but those of us who have experience with old-OLD so-called "monster" Conn E-flat tubas pretty much all agree that the earlier (just after the turn of the century) ones with the 18-in bells (and apparently no nomenclature) played considerably better in tune than those made later (later - yet still pre-World War II)...
... I sold an uncompleted project (made just after the turn of the century) E-flat bell and bows to someone in upstate New York (not anyone who frequents this site) along with a Swiss made front action (3400) E-flat valve set, and I have to believe that it resulted in a wonderful instrument.

I could end up being in possession of this as early as Saturday.