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I’ve had this 1959 Holton 340 for at least 15 years. It was a school horn at a high school in Wisconsin a stone’s throw from the factory. It was mostly “decor” in the house. It’s in good shape, plays great. Valves are good, no cracks in the bell, etc. The one situation that always needed attention was the tiny mismatched buttons and mismatched stems, all different lengths!

So, I decided to gather the needed stuff for @bloke’s “Olds stems and Yama-buttons” conversion (it all sat n a box for a few years…). All was smooth except for a few little things. The incorrect stems had been tacked in with solder, BUT the threading in the pistons turned out to be fine. I guess they just didn’t have the right stems every time one broke. Once cleared of the tiny bit of solder it was no problem. Another issue was the hole in the first cap was ever so slightly too small. The other two had already been opened to @ 9/32. No problem, easy fix. Once all the fitting, machining (gotta say, concentricity, not Holton’s forté…), and a quick valve alignment was done, it was good to go.

Looks good!

Where's the rest of the tuba?

I figured a 340 is pretty mundane. I can take a picture tomorrow if there’s really any interest!

Mine had the same issue. Looks great!

But but but...

Showing that picture hurts the brains of all the OCD people here, because they know that you worked some M4 X .75 buttons into some 8-32 stems.

What hurts their brains even more is that it looks good.




Good for you, and have fun playing it.

I used a 340 several decades ago during the first run of the Broadway musical, Annie with the first touring company. The Overture is in B-flat, of course I was in the pit playing in a 1920s Orpheum circuit theater that had been renovated, and it just sounded magnificent.

bloke wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2024 8:17 pm But but but...

Showing that picture hurts the brains of all the OCD people here, because they know that you worked some M4 X .75 buttons into some 8-32 stems.

What hurts their brains even more is that it looks good.




Good for you, and have fun playing it.

I used a 340 several decades ago during the first run of the Broadway musical, Annie with the first touring company. The Overture is in B-flat, of course I was in the pit playing in a 1920s Orpheum circuit theater that had been renovated, and it just sounded magnificent.

I didn’t retap the stem at all. Just as you mentioned above, I just gently worked the button on to the stem. There’s not a whole lot of resistance until just before the button seats fully.

BTW, I didn’t spring for the “pro” Yama-buttons, but these are older standard ones, so they look a bit nicer than the newer standard ones and closer to the “pro” ones.

Those old theaters are great. Nice when they’re preserved.

Sousaswag wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2024 8:02 pm Mine had the same issue. Looks great!

Thanks! Seeing yours gave me a nudge to get it in gear and finally do this…

Edit: I would have liked to score a set of MW/B&S buttons, but we all know what a challenge that can be.

A picture of the tuba, by request!

How much do the 340s weigh?

I wish I could rescue one from a high school or something, but I don't think they were ever very popular up this-a-way. It seems like the closer you get to the original factories, the more of these you see.

edit: thanks for the pic!

Amazing the amount of subtle differences in these tubas. So different tuba to tuba. I always enjoy seeing more of them and comparing to mine.

Sousaswag wrote: ↑Fri Sep 13, 2024 8:58 am Amazing the amount of subtle differences in these tubas. So different tuba to tuba. I always enjoy seeing more of them and comparing to mine.

I had heard that they were built in lots when they had enough orders. I imagine that might account for some of the variation depending on who was building them and what was remembered!

I don't have a specific answer for Blake regarding weight, but I don't believe I've ever encountered a 4-valve 345 that weighed as much as 30 lb, and - as we all know - the fourth valve circuit of any tuba - combined with its valve and casing and bracing - is/are the single heaviest feature that is typically added to a tuba.

bloke wrote: ↑Sat Sep 14, 2024 9:57 am I don't have a specific answer for Blake regarding weight, but I don't believe I've ever encountered a 4-valve 345 that weighed as much as 30 lb, and - as we all know - the fourth valve circuit of any tuba - combined with its valve and casing and bracing - is/are the single heaviest feature that is typically added to a tuba.

I’m not sure how much this one weighs. If I figure it out, I’ll post it. I’ll say that it impresses me as lighter than it looks.

My pre-weighing guess would be 25 lbs., and I wouldn't be particularly surprised if it only weighed 23 - 24 lbs.